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The Food of Piemonte: Gnocchi alla Bava

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So we have come to the end of Day 10 of the 2006 Winter Olympics. How wondrous this journey has been! Piemonte, unfolding before our very eyes. Revealing her food to us in such a magnificent way!

As I look back at the last ten Olympic days, I am struck by the sheer beauty of these Games. The drama, the victory, the defeat … the food. And I know, deep down, that very soon I will be coming to the end of this Olympic menu. Already I see the main course on the horizon. What will it be? Meat? Game? Fish?

But before I get there … before we get there … I wanted to watch the sun set over the Alps in the company of what is considered comfort food in Piemonte:  Gnocchi alla Bava.

In a place where fresh pasta and rice are royalty, gnocchi are loyal servants. Reliable to a fault, gnocchi will never let you down. Like so many other dishes, the Piemontesi like to dress their gnocchi simply, usually with butter and cheese. And what bounty of cheese in this land! We have already tasted the Robiola … but there is also the Fontina.

Made of cow’s milk, Fontina is a semi-hard cheese that is aged in caves for up to seven months. Do not confuse Italian Fontina with what you will often find in the supermarket. While Fontina is produced in other countries including Denmark, Italian Fontina is unparalleled.

Like all great food, Fontina is best at its very simplest. And no dish in Piemontese cooking can be simpler than Gnocchi alla Bava. In Italian, bava means drool or dribble … not exactly the most appetizing of images! But in fact the gnocchi are called "alla bava" to describe how the they look after they have been tossed with the Fontina. With each forkful the luscious cheese pulls away from the gnocchi in long strands, the sight of which would make anyone drool!

There are several ways of preparing this dish. I am sure that every Piemontese cook has his or her favourite version. The method that I chose is perhaps the simplest:  potato gnocchi are removed from their cooking water and immediately tossed with diced butter and Fontina. As the ingredients are mixed the butter and Fontina melt into an incredibly creamy sauce.

Another popular method is to layer the cooked gnocchi in a greased baking dish with butter and Fontina. The dish is then popped into the oven for a few minutes to allow the butter and Fontina to melt. The dish emerges from the oven and what you end up with is a bubbling mass of golden gnocchi crusted with butter and cheese. Whichever method you choose, the Piemontesi have ensured that you cannot go wrong.

So with my bowl of Gnocchi alla Bava, I sit in my alpine perch and watch the sun as it sets on Day 10. In the distance I can hear the cheers of Canadians as they … as I … celebrate the gold medal won by the women’s hockey team. While I am blessed with Italian heritage, I am proudly Canadian.

With the sound of my national anthem around me, I dine on the simple food of the land that has embraced all the world.

Ciao!

Gnocchi alla Bava

Recipe adapted from The Silver Spoon and The Essentials of Italian Cooking.

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For the gnocchi:

  • 2-1/4 pounds potatoes
  • 1-3/4 cups all-purpose flour (preferably unbleached), plus more for your work surface
  • 1 egg, lightly beaten
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
  2. With a sharp knife, make a cross in each potato, but do not cut through to the bottom. Place the potatoes on a baking sheet and bake until tender (about 1 hour).
  3. Remove the potatoes from the oven and let cool until you are able to handle them.
  4. Peel the potatoes and put them through a potato ricer. Alternatively, you can mash the potatoes with a fork or a potato masher.
  5. Add the salt, flour and egg to the potato mixture.
  6. With your hands, incorporate the ingredients until you can gather the mixture into a ball.
  7. Transfer the gnocchi dough to a well-floured work surface.
  8. Dscn1104_1Knead until you have a soft dough that is not sticky. Be careful with how much flour you add as you do not want the dough to be hard. Add only enough flour so that your dough is not sticky.
  9. Once you have the dough at the right consistency, break off pieces of dough that are roughly the size of a tennis ball.
  10. Flour your hands and begin rolling the balls of dough until you have long ropes that are roughly an inch in width.
  11. With a sharp knife, cut the ropes of dough into gnocchi that are one inch in size.
  12. Dscn1106_1 Take a fork and hold it at a 45-degree angle against a work surface. Take each gnocco (the singular form of gnocchi is gnocco) and roll it down the back of the fork. As you do this you will see that the gnocchi take on the ridged impression of the fork.
  13. As you roll the gnocchi, place them on a tray that has been covered with a dish cloth and sprinkled with flour. Once all your gnocchi have been cut and rolled, place the tray in the refrigerator.
  14. Put a large pot of water to boil. Once it comes to the boil, salt the water generously. Remove the gnocchi from the refrigerator and cook them all at once or in batches, depending on the size of your pot.
  15. The gnocchi are cooked when they rise to the top of the water.
  16. Serve the gnocchi with the sauce of your choosing.

Note:  This recipe serves 4.

Many Italians will protest that authentic potato gnocchi should never be made with egg. They should only be made with potato, flour and salt. The fact is that many people in Italy use egg or egg yolk in their gnocchi dough. While I usually make gnocchi without egg, I decided to publish the recipe that includes egg for those that have not made gnocchi before. The egg helps bind the dough.

If you want to make gnocchi without the egg, omit the egg and for every 1-1/2 pounds of potato, use 1-1/2 cups of flour. 

For the Gnocchi alla Bava:

  • one recipe of potato gnocchi
  • 6 tablespoons butter, diced
  • 4 ounces Fontina cheese, diced
  • 1/2 cup freshly grated parmigiano cheese (more if you really like parmigiano!)
  • salt to taste
  1. Place the butter and Fontina cheese in a pan large enough to accommodate the gnocchi.
  2. As soon as the gnocchi are cooked, drain them and put them in the pan with the butter and Fontina. Sprinkle on the parmigiano.
  3. Carefully toss the the gnocchi until the butter, Fontina and parmigiano have melted and the gnocchi are coated. Taste the gnocchi, add salt if necessary.
  4. Serve immediately and sprinkle with more parmigiano if desired.
  5. Enjoy!

36 Comments

Ceendy

02/20/06 at 11:55 pm

Amazing :) I’ve tried making gnocchi and failed.
I believe your post has just encouraged me to give it another try :)

Rorie

02/21/06 at 1:06 am

That gnocchi looks absolutely delectable. I have never in my life seen anything so pretty - I want some!

Katie

02/21/06 at 1:36 am

You’re killin’ me over here! I absolutely adore gnocchi and that fontina looks so delish I want to lick my monitor!

GastroChick

02/21/06 at 1:44 am

Hi Ivonne
Gnocchi is my favourite, although I have been retiscent to try and make it from scratch, your recipe has motivated me to try - thanks

I have the loved your posts over the past ten days, what a great idea

J

02/21/06 at 2:00 am

hi ivonne, your gnocchi does indeed live up to its drool-worthy name! it looks so utterly heavenly and makes me really yearn for a delicious plateful right now!

Kat & Satoshi

02/21/06 at 5:00 am

Your post is wonderful! What a way to enjoy the Olympics.

melissa_cookingdiva

02/21/06 at 7:41 am

They sure look delicious. I wish it is now time for dinner so I could prepare your gnocchi recipe…But no, it is just time for breakfast! :) Hugs,
M

Ivonne

02/21/06 at 8:20 am

Hi Ceendy,

Please do give gnocchi another try. They’re actually quite easy to make, much easier than fresh pasta. Let me know how it works out!

Ciao Rorie,

Mille grazie! Thank you so much!

Hi Katie,

Thanks so much for stopping by Cream Puffs in Venice! I really appreciate the kind words and I’m glad you’re “enjoying” the gnocchi!

Hi GastroChick!

I’m so glad you’ve decided to give gnocchi a try. They really are very simple to make … let me know how they turn out. And I’m so glad you’re enjoying the trip to Piemonte!

Hi J!

Thanks for stopping by again! Come on over and I’ll have a plate of gnocchi waiting for you!

Hi Kat!

I’m really enjoying these Olympics … and I’m glad you’re enjoying the gnocchi!

Ciao Melissa!

Thanks so much … come over for dinner and we can enjoy some gnocchi together!

Amy

02/21/06 at 9:30 am

Gnocchi is one of my all time favorite comfort foods, usually w/ brown butter and sage. I think I should give alla Bava a try! Cheese, wonderful cheese!

Jennifer

02/21/06 at 10:51 am

Oh, Ivonne, you’re such an inspiration. I have thrown out many a bowl full of sticky potato goo because I couldn’t get the consistency right. Last time, my gnocchi turned out so bad that I swore I’d never make it from scratch again. Maybe I should give your recipe a whirl…I’ll have to let you know!

Karina

02/21/06 at 10:52 am

What a wonderful post! So much to learn…

I tried making gluten-free gnocchi last year - and it was a disaster. The alternative flours turn into glue. Perhaps I’ll have to try again, though. Your recipes and photographs are TOO tempting! :-)

Jenny

02/21/06 at 11:48 am

I want to reach into my screen and take a bite. Looks great, Ivonne. I’m enjoying your Olympic cooking expedition.

Ivonne

02/21/06 at 12:54 pm

Hi Amy,

I also enjoy gnocchi with butter and sage. I also eat pasta that way. But try it with the cheese … it’s worth it!

Hi Jennifer,

Try my recipe and use the egg. You’ll find that it helps with the dough. Let me know how it works out!

Hi Karina,

Thanks so much! I’d give the gnocchi another try …

Hi Jenny,

Thanks so much! I’m having a great time on this “trip” as well!

Cannella

02/21/06 at 1:34 pm

Appena ho aperto il tuo blog questi gnocchi mi sono saltati letteralmente addosso! E direttamente in pancia!

Amy Deik

02/21/06 at 4:22 pm

Gnocchi is alwasy a favorite, yet I have never tried to make it myself. I do make fresh pasta sometimes, and I see you claim gnocchi is easier… I will have to try it now… and what better way than with fontina all over it?!?

Ivonne

02/21/06 at 6:02 pm

Ciao Cannella!

Erano buonissimi! A casa mia ci sara’ sempre un piatto per te!

Hi Amy,

I couldn’t agree with you more. And I encourage you to try the gnocchi!

Darla

02/21/06 at 11:32 pm

“In a place where fresh pasta and rice are royalty, gnocchi are loyal servants.”

I love that line.

I received The Silver Spoon as a Christmas gift and jumped into it at full speed, but haven’t picked up in 6 weeks. . . better get to it. Gnocchi is something I always have bene meaning to make but have never gotten around to it. Thanks for the push!

Ivonne

02/21/06 at 11:36 pm

Hi Darla!

You’re so welcome … enjoy making the gnocchi!

Paz

02/22/06 at 12:12 am

I’ve been meaning to try making gnocchi but haven’t had a chance.

As I’ve been trying to catch up with my blog readings, this is the second time I’ve seen a recipe for Gnocchi. That’s telling me something. Time to make it soon!

Thanks, Ivonne!

Paz

hag

02/22/06 at 2:36 am

I love Gnocchi! It is my absolute favorite. I have seen the numerous gnocchi recipes in the Silver Spoon Book and I want to try them all… but, I think I will give yours a try this weekend thanks for the inspiration.

Lori

02/22/06 at 8:32 am

Hi, Ivonne!

You’ve inspired me. I’m seriously considering making some gnocchi this weekend.

Question 1: What type of potatoes do you use?
Question 2: How long can I leave them in the fridge before I cook them? Can I make them the night before?
Question 3: Do I need adult supervision for this project?

Thanks, my dear!

Ivonne

02/22/06 at 9:47 am

Ciao Paz!

I’m glad gnocchi are so popular! I hope you try them soon and blog about them!

Hello Hag!

Yes please do give them a try. Actually the version I tried is from the Silver Spoon. They were quite easy to make!

Hi wee Lori!

I will e-mail you with answers to your questions!

Tania

02/22/06 at 1:52 pm

I can barely type for the drool!! Yum yum, Ivonne! These look fantastic!

Gerald

02/22/06 at 3:57 pm

I love all your Piemonte posts! The gnocchi recipe looks pretty simple and appetizing!

Ivonne

02/22/06 at 4:00 pm

Hi Tania,

I’m so glad you like them! They were really good!

Hi Gerald,

Hope you had a great time in Montreal! And I’m glad you’re enjoying the Piemonte posts!

Mark

02/22/06 at 4:02 pm

Wow, I was so happy to see this gnocchi recipe; I’ll have to give it a try. I just attempted gnocci for the first time a few days ago (details are on my site), and I’m anxious to try again. One tip that I found very helpful, that will lead to even lighter/fluffier gnocchi, is to use “grade 00″, or Italian flour– this has less gluten, which is why gnocchi made with this are lighter!

Anyways, keep up the awesome blogging… your recipes have been making me really hungry! :-)
Mark, http://www.almostchef.com

AnneCuisine

02/23/06 at 6:58 am

I would love to find the gumption to make gnocchi! I absolutely love these little guys but wimp out and buy the pre-packaged kind… gourmet French chef n’est-ce pas?

Now, on to the cheese…

pmoed

02/23/06 at 10:24 am

I just tried Marcella Hazan’s recipe for gnocchi. It improves each time I make it. But I still can’t get the “rolling down the fork” bit for making the impressions. Do you actually press the gnoccho against the tines? That’s what I did, but I wasn’t sure that was what she meant.

Ceendy

02/23/06 at 11:06 am

One more question.. :) Is there a particular potato that’s most suitable for making gnocchi?

Ivonne

02/23/06 at 11:33 am

Hi Mark!

Thanks so much for stopping by! I’m glad you tried gnocchi. I’ll have to check out your blog to read about it.

Bonjour Anne!

Actually gnocchi are quite easy. In fact I find them much easier than pasta because you don’t have to use any equipment to roll the out … just your hands!

Hi Patricia!

I’ll e-mail you the details of the whole fork thing!

Hi Ceendy,

I’ll e-mail you about the potatoes.

fiordizucca goes english

02/23/06 at 2:05 pm

despite the title, they look delicious! :))
you know bava in italian is also the name for “saliva” :))
baci!

Ivonne

02/24/06 at 6:27 am

Ciao Fiordizucca!

I know it’s not the most appetizing of names … but the gnocchi were delicious!

Bea at La Tartine Gourmande

02/26/06 at 12:11 pm

Delicious!! I love to make gnocchis and specifically, eat them! Looks merveilleux Ivonne!

Ivonne

02/26/06 at 5:40 pm

Ciao Bea,

Merci beaucoup!

Tanna

01/17/07 at 12:21 pm

So, now I can use your Fontina to top some of my gnocchi.
So what is your answer on the potato? I think my first attempt was doomed to fail because I really overworked every addition and didn’t rice the potatoe but used my pastry for to mash them.

Tanna

01/17/07 at 12:25 pm

fork, pastry fork to mash them.

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