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Archive for April, 2006

Cin Cin!

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And so the end of the meal has arrived. This glorious feast that has been the month of April has reached the finale. I bid adieu to the month of lemon and to Lori Longbotham’s Lemon Zest.

Having never made anything from this cookbook, I didn’t know what to expect when I selected it as my Flavour of the Month. To say that I am pleased with my choice would be an understatement. I enjoyed every recipe I tried and only wish that I had the time to try even more. The Lemon Oil I made became the basis for several dishes including Green Olives with Lemon and Fennel, Lemon and Fig Tapenade and Roasted Artichokes with Lemon. Without question my two favourite recipes were the Creamy Lemon Fettuccine and the Lemony Bread-Pudding French Toast.

But it’s time to move on. May is just around the corner and there are new opportunities to discover within the cookbooks that sit on my creaking and groaning Overburdened Bookshelf. As some of you may already have heard, May is the month that has been chosen for the eat local challenge organized by Jen of Life Begins at 30. Sponsored by Locavores, the challenge aims to encourage participants to try a and eat as much locally-grown and produced food as possible. Check out the details of the May Eat Local Challenge and think about taking part. It’s an opportunity to discover some great resources where you live, as well as find out a bit more about the food you eat!

Dscn1758_1So as I welcome May, and the challenge ahead, I end my  meal for the month of April with a digestivo or digestif. It is very common in Italy to end your meal with a drink to aid in digestion (especially if you’ve had one of those marathon, multi-course Italian Sunday lunches). Longbotham’s book offers a recipe for a sort of lemon vodka/limoncello/lemon syrup that can be used both as a topping for ice cream or a special dessert, as well as an after-dinner liqueur. I was intrigued. Initially I’d thought of trying a recipe for preserved lemons, but decided against it. If you’d like to try a great recipe for preserved lemons, check out Darla’s preserved lemons at Messy Cucina. And by the way, if you want to read some more lovely prose about citrus and this lovely time of year, check out some of Tea’s posts at Tea and Cookies. Her writing makes you want to immerse yourself in a garden of lemon trees!

In Italy, it is common to clink glasses and say "Alla Salute!", which means "to your good health". But we can also clink our glasses and say "Cin Cin!", or "cheers!" So I raise my glass to all of you. April was a wonderful month. I wish you all good health and happy eating in the month to come.

Cin Cin!

Sweet Preserved Lemons

Adapted from Lemon Zest by Lori Longbotham.

  • 4 lemons
  • 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
  • 1-1/4 cups vodka, or as much as needed to cover the lemons
  • 1 cup sugar
  1. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Add the lemons and return to the boil. Allow to boil for 1 minute. Remove the lemons and allow to dry and cool down slightly.
  2. Cut each lemon lengthwise into quarters from the blossom end to within 1/2 an inch of the stem end, being careful to keep the lemon intact.
  3. Place the vanilla bean in the jar. Be sure to use a wide-mouth jar with at least a capacity of 1 quart. Pack the lemons into the jar.
  4. Combine the sugar and vodka in a pan. Cook over low heat, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved. Do not boil.
  5. Pour the syrup over the lemons. If necessary, add more vodka to cover the lemons.
  6. Seal the jar and refrigerate for at least 2 weeks; shaking the jar occasionally.
  7. The lemons will keep tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 4 months.
  8. Enjoy!

Note:  The original recipe also calls for 1 star anise.

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Some Lemony Spuds For You!

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I could not possibly have let April go by without sharing this lemony recipe with you. This is one that will become a classic in your repertoire. Trust me. Easy, yet so delicious, this dish is perfect for a small dinner or for a huge gathering. The recipe can be halved or doubled easily (or tripled … believe me I’ve done it).

I’m willing to bet that you have all of the ingredients in your pantry right now. It takes ten minutes to pull together and about an hour in the oven. This dish goes perfectly with meat, poultry and fish, or you can enjoy it on its own (as I have) with some fresh, crusty bread.

Dscn1720What starts off as raw potatoes in a pan full of water ends up as a dish of luscious lemony potatoes lounging in a bath of the most divine lemon sauce you will ever taste. And if that isn’t enough to convince you, then try to imagine the aroma that will fill your home. It starts off with the faint scent of potatoes beginning to roast. Very soon the potato aroma is joined by the unmistakably crisp and bright scent of lemon. And for the finish comes the oregano, which releases its herby scent as it heats up.

Still not sure? Ok … well then just imagine what it looks like when you take it out of the oven. Golden potato spears flecked with oregano and surrounded by the deep yellow of lemon that has intensified in the oven.

So what are you doing still sitting in front of your computer reading this?! Go make yourself some lemony potatoes!

Ciao!

Lemon Roasted Potatoes

Adapted from Cook This by Amy Rosen.

  • 8 Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and quartered
  • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • the juice of 3 lemons (1/2 cup to 2/3 cup)
  • 1 teaspoon lemon zest
  • 3 teaspoons dried oregano
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons sea salt
  • freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 1 cup water
  1. Dscn1704Preheat the oven to 45o degrees F.
  2. In a large ovenproof dish, combine all the ingredient, except the water.
  3. Once everything is well-combined, pour the water over the potatoes.
  4. Bake, uncovered, for 50 minutes to an hour. Turn the potatoes every once and awhile.
  5. The potatoes are done when they’re golden and crispy on the outside but soft on the inside (you should be able to pierce them easily with a fork).
  6. Enjoy!

Note:  This recipe serves 8, however, it can easily be halved to serve 4. Don’t use small potatoes as they may fall apart.

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Lemony Crab Cakes

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April is flying by and my opportunities to continue to entice you with recipes from Lori Longbotham’s Lemon Zest are quickly coming to an end. If April had 100 days I could easily fill each one with a recipe from Lori’s book. It’s that good. And you know Cream Puff would never lie to you!

Over the weekend, I decided to try a main course dish from the book. Initially I thought of trying one of the many inviting recipes for roast chicken, but let’s face it, I’m sure we all have our favourite roast chicken recipe. Instead I opted for something a bit different … a dish I have never prepared at home before:  crab cakes.

I took advantage of the fact that my baking course is close to Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market, which is blessed with a number of quality fish purveyors. For my crab cakes, I chose Mike’s Fish Market. The people at Mike’s were very friendly and helpful, especially when they pointed out that they sell frozen lump crab meat in half and one-pound boxes. Excellent! I love Mike because he just made my life so much easier. One word of caution … please make sure that you’re buying real crabmeat, which is a beautiful thing.

Do not buy nasty imitation crabmeat. The only nice thing I can say about imitation crabmeat is … well … I don’t have anything nice to say about imitation crabmeat. Buy the good stuff. It will cost you a bit more but it’s worth it. You’re worth it!

I defrosted the crabmeat and once again silently sent blessings the way of Mike and his peeps as the crabmeat was clean without any bits of shell in it. That’s something you need to look out for when buying lump crabmeat.

As with all of Lori’s recipes, this one came together quickly. While the original recipe instructs you to bake the crab cakes, I thought I’d splurge a bit and fry them. I put the crab cakes in the refrigerator to firm up a bit so I could bread them relatively easily. Once breaded, I also let them sit for a bit so that the bread coating could dry out. That helps make the end product even crispier.

While the crab cakes were resting, I quickly threw together the tartar sauce. The original recipe requires tarragon, but I didn’t have any and I wasn’t going to use dried. Instead I just used some fresh parsley and made a mental note to try this recipe again when I can use fresh tarragon from my own garden. In under an hour, from start to finish, I had fried up a plate of beautiful crab cakes that tasted of … crab! But also of lemon and shallot and parsley.

Say it with me, people … fried food is good! Especially when it consists of good-quality crab and beautiful lemons.

Ciao!

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Lemony Crab Cakes

Adapted from Lemon Zest by Lori Longbotham.

For the crab cakes:

  • 3/4 cup Lemon Mayonnaise (recipe follows) or regular mayonnaise
  • 1/4 cup sour cream
  • 2 tablespoons coarse-grain Dijon mustard
  • 1 large egg, lightly beaten
  • 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
  • 1 shallot, finely diced
  • 1 tablespoon parsley, finely chopped
  • pinch of freshly ground pepper
  • 2 pounds lump crabmeat (be sure to inspect the crabmeat and remove any shells or cartilage)
  • Lemon-Parsley Tartar Sauce (recipe follows)
  • 1 cup bread crumbs
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • vegetable oil for frying
  1. Whisk together the mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard, egg, zest, shallot, parsley and pepper in a bowl until well combined. Add the crabmeat and mix gently until just combined.
  2. Gently form the crab mixture into eight 1-inch thick crab cakes. Once done, place the crab cakes in the refrigerator for 30 minutes, to firm up.
  3. Put the beaten eggs in one plate and the bread crumbs in another. Gently dip each crab cake in the beaten egg and then coat with the bread crumbs. Set aside.
  4. Dscn1706Heat vegetable oil in a large frying pan. Oil should come about half an inch up the side of the pan. Don’t fry all the crab cakes at once. Depending on the size of your pan, fry 2 or 3 at a time. The crab cakes will take about 4 to 5 minutes on each side. Once fried, place the crab cakes on a plate lined with paper towels to soak up the excess oil. Sprinkle with salt and a little paprika (if you like).
  5. Serve the crab cakes with the Lemon-Parsley Tartar Sauce
  6. Enjoy!

For the Lemon Mayonnaise:

  • 1 cup mayonnaise
  • 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • 2 teaspoons coarse-grain or regular Dijon mustard
  • pinch of salt
  • pinch of freshly ground pepper
  1. Mix together the mayonnaise, zest, lemon juice, mustard, salt and pepper until well combined. Keep covered in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

For the Lemon-Parsley Tartar Sauce:

  • 1 cup Lemon Mayonnaise or regular mayonnaise
  • 1/4 cup sour cream
  • 1 shallot, minced
  • 2 cornichons, minced
  • 9 brine-cured Mediterranean olives, pitted and chopped
  • 2 teaspoons parsley, finely chopped (original recipe calls for tarragon)
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons cider vinegar
  • hot red pepper sauce, to taste
  1. Whisk all ingredients together. Keep refrigerated until ready to serve. Tartar sauce will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Note:  The Lemony Crab Cakes serve 4. If you don’t want to fry the crab cakes, then as soon as you’ve formed them (do not coat them in breading), bake them in a preheated oven (400 degrees F) on a lightly oiled baking sheet. Bake the cakes for 15 to 20 minutes, until they’re golden brown. Let the crab cakes cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes before plating them.

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Cream Puff Goes to School: Week 2

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On the menu for week 2:  pie dough and apple pie.

The second week of baking class began with a demonstration of pie crust and the preparation for apple pie filling. Having practiced making pie dough in our first class, we were all ready to put our previous lesson to the test.

After a rush to weigh and measure out ingredients, we started by peeling our apples for the filling. I was very impressed with how easily I was able to peel my apples with my brand new peeler. While I’ve always used a paring knife, our instructor suggested using a peeler. His reasoning was that often with a paring knife, too much of the apple flesh is removed along with the peel. This results in the loss of valuable pectin, which is a natural thickener in apples. While the peeler isn’t necessary, I removed far less apple flesh than when I usually use a paring knife. So either I become more skilled with the paring knife or I embrace my new peeler!

Once the apples were peeled and sliced, we mixed them with sugar, cinnamon and a substance I had never encountered before:  modified cornstarch. More on that later.

Because I nicked myself slightly while slicing my apples, I was a bit hampered when it came time to put the dough together. My partner (we’re paired up in baking class) and I both tried to get involved in pulling together the dough but this only resulted in us adding a bit too much liquid and over mixing. That’s the other important tip for that day’s class:  don’t over mix your dough! While our dough had come together, it was too moist.

Our instructor quickly noticed our dilemma and helped us out by throwing in a bit more flour. We were then able to proceed without any other significant problems. But the resulting pie, while tasty, did have a tougher crust than I would have liked. This is a result of over mixing and having to add more flour.

Overall I was pleased with my apple pie. I’m not used to making pie crusts with shortening, but with practice I know I can get better at it. We used Spartan apples for our pies and this was another revelation. At home we’ve always used a combination of Golden Delicious, Granny Smith and McIntosh apples. I was pleasantly surprised by how good the Spartan apple filling was and by how well the apples held together. I missed the hint of nutmeg that we always add to our pies, but that’s a matter of personal taste.

I really enjoyed this class and am looking forward to trying my new pie crust recipe and technique this summer when berry season hits. I was, however, disappointed in one aspect of the class. As I mentioned above, the apple pie filling recipe that we followed required modified cornstarch.

I had no idea what modified cornstarch was so I pulled down my new favourite book in the world, On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee, and did some reading. Cornstarch is a type of starch made from the maize grain. It’s often used as a thickener in cooking in the same way that people would use flour. When a starch like cornstarch is modified, it means that it has either been made from corn that has been purposely bred to yield a grain that will result in a more reliable form of cornstarch, or that the cornstarch has been treated, possibly with chemicals, to alter the structure of the starch molecules in order to make it an even better thickener.

Our instructor explained that modified cornstarch is widely used in commercial baking because it’s so reliable and produces a consistent filling every time. When a few students noted that they had used flour in the past, the concern was raised that using flour may result in your filling having a flour-taste, even after the pie is cooked.

While the apple filling tasted good, its consistency was very different from that of the pies that we usually bake at home. My mother has been baking apple pies for 30 years and she’s always used a bit of flour in the filling. And I have never tasted the flour after the pie has been cooked. Never.

With my pie, I found that the modified cornstarch made the pie filling taste a lot like the filling you get from a can. While the apple flavour was enjoyable, the texture was sort of weird. There was a gel-like consistency to it that was slightly unpleasant, especially once the pie cooled. At the risk of sounding immodest, I’ll take my mom’s apple pie filling any day over one made with modified cornstarch.

Now don’t get me wrong. I understand that all sorts of ingredients are used in baking, especially commercial baking, that we wouldn’t necessarily use at home. But having tasted a lovely pie filling where the apples still taste like apples without being suspended in a thick, goopy sauce, why would I ever want to change that?

I’m really happy with the new pie crust recipe that I learned, as well as the mixing and rolling techniques that I’ve practiced over my first two classes. But as for the modified cornstarch … I’ll pass, thanks.

See you next class.

Ciao!

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Hey! What’s for Pud?!

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You may be wondering what that oozy, creamy blob is pictured above? It’s sticky toffee pudding and it’s an oozy, creamy dish of yumminess that never fails to make Cream Puff feel good!

Being Canadian, I have always had a certain affinity for all things English. Canada, you see, was once an English colony. In fact, in Canada, the British Monarch is still recognized as the Head of State and is represented by the Governor General. So when Sam of Becks & Posh and Monkey Gland of Jam Faced announced that they would be hosting an event to commemorate St. George’s Day … well … how could I resist?

Without question, I knew I would make sticky toffee pudding. From the first time I made this dessert, I was hooked. It combines so many of my favourite things:  dates, muscovado sugar, butter … and table cream.

While researching the history of sticky toffee pudding, I did come across some vague references to Scottish desserts. I, however, have decided that this is a truly English dessert. So shall it be written so shall it be done! The basis for this decision comes from the information I gleaned from the mighty Wikipedia which explained that sticky toffee pudding may have initially been called "icky sticky toffee pudding". Why, I have no idea, as there is nothing icky about it!

There are a couple of versions of how this dessert originated. One is that it was created in 1960 by a hotel owner named Francis Coulson who served the dessert at a hotel he owned located near the Scottish border (could possibly explain references to this being a Scottish dessert). The other version is that the pudding was created in 1907 by the landlady of an inn in Millington. Either way, I’m grateful for the dessert’s invention.

My sticky toffee pudding is based on the version in Nigella Lawson’s Nigella Bites. Now I know people have mixed feelings about Nigella and the role she has taken in representing British food. Some people like her and some people don’t. I have to admit I am a Nigella fan. When it comes to food personalities, especially those on television, I always judge them on the success of their recipes when I try them at home. In Nigella’s case, I must give credit where credit is due. Every recipe that I’ve tried from her books has turned out well. Her recipes are easy to follow and they work. I can’t argue with that!

Plus, I am endlessly fascinated by the way she stuffs food into her mouth. I know, I know. I’m falling victim to unadulterated television manipulation but I don’t care. She’s transfixing. Like the episode of Nigella Bites where she bakes a Yorkshire pudding and then promptly cuts a piece for herself, drowns it in cream and syrup and then gorges on it, all before serving her guests.

Dscn1654I like to use Medjool dates in my version of this pudding. Quite simply, they are heaven with a pit in the middle. Fortunately the pit comes out very easily! If you have any dates left over, stuff them with mascarpone or cream cheese for a treat. This dessert is very easy to pull together. You mix it in one bowl and into the baking dish it goes. It belongs to the family of "self-saucing puddings" which means that by some scientific miracle, during baking, a spongy cake rises to the top and a sinfully rich sauce forms at the bottom. I have no idea how it happens. And to be honest I don’t much care. As long as I get my spongy cake and rich sauce, I’m a satisfied Cream Puff!

So Happy St. George’s Day to all! Pour yourselves a pint, have some fish and chips and enjoy some sticky toffee pudding.

God Save the Queen!

Ciao!

Easy Sticky-Toffee Pudding

Adapted from Nigella Bites by Nigella Lawson.

For the cake:

  • 100 g (3-1/2 ounces) dark muscovado sugar
  • 175 g (6 ounces) self-raising flour
  • 125 ml (1/2 cup) whole milk
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 50 g (about 2 ounces) unsalted butter, melted
  • Dscn1640200 g (7 oz) chopped dates (I used Medjool dates)

For the sauce:

  • 200 g (1 cup) dark muscovado sugar
  • approximately 25 g (about 1 ounce) unsalted butter (to top the pudding), broken into little pieces
  • 500 ml (2 cups) boiling water

To assemble the pudding:

  1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C, or if you’re British, gas mark 5).
  2. Generously butter a baking dish that has a capacity of 1-1/2 litres.
  3. In a bowl, combine the muscovado sugar and the flour. Make sure there are no lumps!
  4. Pour the milk into a measuring cup and beat in the egg, vanilla and melted butter. Mix well.
  5. Dscn1641Pour the milk mixture into the sugar and flour mixture and mix until just combined.
  6. Fold in the dates.
  7. Spoon the mixture into the prepared baking dish and spread evenly across the bottom of the dish. This doesn’t make a lot of batter but don’t worry, it will rise to fill your baking dish.
  8. Sprinkle the 200 g (1 cup) of muscovado sugar over the top of the batter. Dot with the 25 g of butter.
  9. Pour the boiling water over everything. Yes … I know … it sounds strange but trust me … it Dscn1643 works!
  10. Bake for 45 minutes, or until the cake is springy when touched.
  11. Remove from the oven and let cool for a few minutes. When you cut into it, you will have a lovely sponge cake on top and the most delicious sauce on the bottom.
  12. Serve with ice cream, whipped cream or do as I do and just pour lovely table cream over the whole thing.
  13. Enjoy!

Note:  This recipe serves 6-8 people. It can be doubled to feed a crowd.

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SHF #18: Open, Sesamé!

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I already know what you’re thinking.

You’re thinking, “Why did she make a dessert with rum when Chandra of Lick the Spoon, who’s hosting SHF#18, mentioned avoiding the ubiquitous rum cake?”

Paris_sweetsIn my defence, I had not planned on making a dessert for SHF#18 that had rum in it. I had been planning something with a lovely limoncello as part of this month’s focus on Lori Longbotham’s Lemon Zest. But it was not to be. You see, a few days ago, I was consulting Dorie Greenspan’s Paris Sweets, when I inadvertently turned to a page with a recipe for Ali-Babas. For those of you who are unfamiliar with Ms. Greenspan, she is a food writer extraordinaire. She is a contributing editor for Bon Appétit and she has written several acclaimed cookbooks including a collaboration with the great Julia Child on the book Baking with Julia. While I haven’t ever made anything from Paris Sweets, I was instantly smitten with the book. It’s charming and precious in the way that only a book about the pâtisseries of Paris can be.

So there I was, flipping pages absent-mindedly, when the heading Ali-Babas came jumping out at me. Without even reading the recipe I knew that this would be my entry for SFH #18.

Let me explain.

I was not the most outgoing of children. I was bright and studious, but shy. I preferred to observe from the background rather than claim centre stage. Books were the great interest of my childhood. My nose was always buried in a book and thankfully I had a mother who nourished that activity.

Dscn1696Among my favourites, was a book called The Arabian Nights. I had a version written for children that I consumed over and over again. All the while I imagined that I was a part of that magical world. At night, in bed, I would turn towards my window and wish for a flying carpet to stop right outside so that I could hop on and fly off to an adventure. My mind’s eye delighted in visions of flowing veils, colourful jewels, gleaming lamps and exotic foods.

But without question, the story that I loved the most was the story of Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves. In short, the story is about a man named Ali Baba who discovers a secret treasure belonging to a band of forty thieves. The treasure is hidden in a cave that is sealed by magic. To open the cave you must say “Open, Sesamé” and to close the cave you must say “Close, Sesamé”. Being the imaginative child I was I would walk up to doors and quietly intone “Open, Sesamé”. Of course they never opened but I didn’t care. I was a kid and I was having a ball.

Seeing a recipe for Ali-Babas brought back so many of those delightful childhood moments when the world is a huge, open place where all sorts of wondrous things can happen simply by wiggling your nose or clicking your heels together. Ah, youth!

In Paris Sweets, Greenspan explains that the recipe for Ali-Babas comes from Pâtisserie Stohrer, the oldest pastry shop in Paris. It is believed that the recipe for Ali-Babas was created early in the 18th Century by Nicolas Stohrer in honour of the exiled King of Poland, Stanislas Leszczynski. Apparently the original version included saffron, wine, grapes, raisins, angelica and candied lemons, which were all kneaded into the dough. The resulting pastry was then soaked in a syrup of saffron and wine.

Over time the Ali-Babas made at Pâtisserie Stohrer have changed to resemble a baba au rhum. It is a yeasted pastry that is soaked in a rum syrup. The top part is then sliced off and a lovely dollop of pastry cream is added. The top part is then perched atop the pastry cream like a crown.

While it wasn’t a difficult pastry to make, it does take some time so you’ll want to prepare in advance. I enjoyed every step, especially the part where I got to soak raisins in rum and then flambé them. That’s the kind of adventure the little girl in me who read The Arabian Nights just loves.

It goes without saying that the Ali-Babas were delicious. Dripping with rum syrup, the vanilla pastry studded with raisins is a glorious match. Having eaten one, I am now ready to go in search of hidden treasure, armed with the magical words that will help me in my quest.

Close, Sesamé!

Ciao!

Ali-Babas

Adapted from Paris Sweets by Dorie Greenspan.

For the vanilla pastry cream:

  • 2 cups whole milk
  • 1 moist, plump vanilla bean, split and scraped
  • 6 large egg yolks
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/3 cup cornstarch, sifted
  • 3-1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 3 pats, at room temperature
  1. Bring the milk and the vanilla bean to a boil in a small pot. Turn off the heat and allow the milk and vanilla to infuse for at least 10 minutes, or up to an hour.
  2. Take a large bowl, and a second smaller bowl that fit within the larger one. Place ice cubes in the larger one and have it at the ready.
  3. In another saucepan, whisk the eggs, sugar and cornstarch until smooth. Slowly drizzle in the milk, whisking constantly. If the milk is hot go slowly as it may curdle the eggs.
  4. Once the milk and egg mixture are combine, remove the pod and set the pan over medium heat. Whisk until the mixture comes to a boil. Continue to whisk for a further minute or two. The mixture should be thick and creamy.
  5. Pass the cream through the sieve into the smaller bowl. Add water to the larger bowl and then place the smaller bowl in the ice bath. Stir frequently until the mixture has cooled to 140 degrees F (60 degrees C).
  6. Remove the mixture from the ice bath and whisk in the butter. Place plastic wrap directly on the surface of the cream and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the raisins:

  • 1/2 cup moist, plump raisins
  • 2 tablespoons dark rum
  1. Soak the raisins in hot water for about 5 minutes.
  2. Drain the raisins and place them in a small pot.
  3. Heat the raisins until they are very hot.
  4. Remove from the heat and immediately add the rum.
  5. Carefully, ignite the raisins with a match. Swirl the pot around until the flames extinguish. Be very careful and stand back when you do this!
  6. Let the raisins cool to room temperature.
  7. Once the raisins have cooled, stir them into the vanilla pastry cream and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the rum syrup:

  • 1-1/4 cups water
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1/4 cup dark rum
  1. Bring the water and sugar to boil in a small pan.
  2. Pour the syrup into a deep bowl (deep enough for you to be able to soak the Ali-Babas in) and let cool for 15 minutes. Add the rum and stir.
  3. Set aside until ready to use.

For the Ali-Babas:

  • 1/3 cup water, at room temperature
  • 1 packet (2-1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 4 large eggs, at room temperature
  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
  1. Generously butter a 12-cup muffin pan (or 12 baba au rhum molds if you have them) and set aside.
  2. Stir the water, yeast and sugar together in the bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer. When the yeast is dissolved, add the flour and salt. Using the dough hook, mix at medium speed until a moist ball forms. This should take about 2 minutes.
  3. Switch the attachments to the paddle. Add 2 of the eggs and beat at medium-low speed for 3 minutes. Add the remaining 2 eggs and mix until the eggs are incorporated. Once the eggs are thoroughly mixed in, increase the speed to medium-high and beat for 3 minutes.
  4. Add the cooled butter and beat for 5 more minutes on medium-high speed. The dough the should be fairly thin and smooth.
  5. Divide the dough evenly between the muffin cups. Each cup should be about half full. Cover the pan with a sheet of parchment or wax paper and set aside for about 25 to 30 in a warm place for the dough to rise. Once the dough has risen it should fill the cups about three-quarters of the way.
  6. While the dough is rising, place a rack in the centre of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (180 degrees C).
  7. Remove the paper, place the muffin pan on a baking sheet. Once you put the muffin tin in the oven place the handle of a wooden spoon in the door of the oven to prop it open slightly. Bake for 25 to 28 minutes. The Ali-Babas will be golden brown. Let cool in the pan for 5 minutes and then unmold onto a rack and allow to cool to room temperature.

To assemble the Ali-Babas:

  1. Take each Ali-Baba and make six small slits. One by one, drop the Ali-Babas into the syrup. Drench them thoroughly in the rum syrup and transfer to a plate.
  2. Refrigerate the Ali-Babas and thoroughly chill them, for at least 3 hours but not more than a day.
  3. Once the Ali-Babas are cold, take each one and slice off the top third. Top each one with a spoonful of the pastry cream and then cover with the top piece. Serve them immediately or wrap them tightly and refrigerate them for up to 6 hours.
  4. Enjoy!

Note:  Each of the elements of this recipe can be made ahead. The syrup can be refrigerated for up to a week. The pastry cream can be made up to three days prior to use and kept tightly-covered in the refrigerator. The unsoaked Ali-Babas can be kept at room temperature in a container for 1 day or wrapped airtight and frozen for up to a month. Bring to room temperature before soaking. The rum-soaked Ali-Babas can be kept well-wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.

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An Affair to Remember: I Carciofi

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I wasn’t planning on posting this evening, but I had no choice. I am enjoying Lemon Zest so much and I realized that I don’t have many days left in April to post about this cookbook. Having prepared a dish that features one of the vegetable loves of my life, I just had to come and share with all of you.

But before I jump into my ode to artichokes, I just want to take the opportunity to bring to your attention an exciting event that’s happening in May. If you haven’t already heard about it, Life Begins at 30 is challenging everyone to eat locally during the month of May. I first heard about this challenge on Raspberry Sour’s blog The Sour Patch. I very brashly declared that I would take up the challenge and only eat local foods.

Then I remembered that I live in Canada and it’s not uncommon for us to have snow well into April! Luckily spring has already graced us with her presence, but still, it’s not like we’ve got an enormous selection of produce to choose from. So I’ve decided that while I may not be able to eat only local foods in May, I will certainly try my best and I hope that wherever you are, you’ll take up the challenge as well.

And now back to our regularly scheduled programming …

I have always been in love with artichokes (in Italian i carciofi). From the time I was a little girl trying desperately to get in the middle of my mother’s daily cooking routine, I have loved artichokes. Why do I love them so? I think it’s a combination of the colour, the shape and the flavour. This is why I was so upset when we couldn’t find baby artichokes for our Easter lunch. Traditionally, we serve fried baby artichokes as an accompaniment to the roast leg of lamb and the fried lamb chops (more on this in another post). But this year it was not to be and I was so very disappointed.

As explained by Alice Waters in her incredible book Chez Panisse Vegetables, artichokes are actually the edible flower of a plant (thistle). Artichokes are widely used in Italy and so Italians have become quite expert at cooking with them. In fact, artichokes were introduced to North America by Italians who settled in California. Waters explains that artichokes have two main growing seasons:  the spring and the fall. So we should all be looking for some fresh artichokes in our markets.

Since I was denied my fried artichokes on Easter Sunday, I’ve been craving them since. And I thought it would be a wonderful idea if I spent the last day of my mini-holiday (back to work tomorrow) enjoying some artichokes. I already knew what recipe I wanted to try. It’s from Lori Longbotham’s Lemon Zest and it’s a recipe for roasted artichokes.

Many people are intimidated by artichokes because of the perceived difficulty in cleaning them. In fact, once you get the hang of it cleaning artichokes isn’t that difficult. It helps if you have the following supplies:  a serrated knife, a paring knife, a good pair of kitchen shears and a big bowl of water with lemon in it.

To clean an artichoke, simply tear off the outside leaves that are usually too hard to eat. With the serrated knife, cut the artichoke down the middle lengthwise. Take the kitchen shears and snip off the ends of the outer artichoke leaves, especially if they’re thorny. With the paring knife or with a spoon, scoop out the fuzzy bit at the centre of the artichoke known as the choke. Use the paring knife to pare away the outer layer of the bottom of the artichoke and the stem (if using large artichokes the outer layer can be tough). Immediately drop the artichoke in the lemon water to prevent it turning brown.

This is the method we use at home and it always works. Of course if you’re lucky enough to have fresh baby artichokes, you’ll find that you don’t need to trim away as many leaves as they will be far more tender.

Having cleaned my artichokes, I used the Lemon Oil that I’d made earlier this month, as well as sliced lemons and garlic. I mixed everything in a baking dish and then baked the artichokes for 45 to 50 minutes in a hot oven. I let the artichokes cool to room temperature and decided to take the opportunity to try out another Lemon Zest recipe:  Creamy Lemon Vinaigrette. I used the vinaigrette as a dressing for the artichokes.

Fantastic! The vinaigrette complimented the artichokes so well and the best part is that I have lots of vinaigrette left for salad. As for the artichokes … not a single one left.

I got my artichoke fix and I am once again a happy girl. Isn’t vegetable love glorious!

Ciao!

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Roasted Artichokes with Lemon

Adapted from Lemon Zest by Lori Longbotham.

  • 3 large artichokes
  • 1/4 cup Lemon Oil (or olive oil)
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • pinch of freshly ground pepper
  • 6-8 lemon slices, seeds removed
  • 3 garlic cloves, sliced in half
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
  2. Clean and quarter the artichokes. Remember to put them in a blow of water with lemon as you clean them. Rinse the artichokes once you’re done and pat them dry.
  3. In a glass baking dish (9 x 13), pour the lemon oil and stir in the salt and pepper. Take each artichoke quarter and roll it in the oil to coat. Arrange the lemon slices in the baking dish and top with a garlic half. Lay the artichokes over the layer of lemons and garlic.
  4. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and roast for 45 minutes, or until you can pierce the artichokes with a knife or fork.
  5. Remove from the oven and transfer the artichokes to a plate. Add the lemon juice to the liquid in the baking dish. Mix well and then spoon over the artichokes. If you are going to serve the artichokes with the vinaigrette (recipe follows), you can skip this step.
  6. Enjoy!

Creamy Lemon Vinaigrette

Adapted from Lemon Zest by Lori Longbotham.

  • 1/4 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
  • 1 shallot, minced
  • 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
  • 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper (use white pepper if you have it)
  • 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon Lemon Oil or olive oil
  1. Dscn1668Whisk together the crème fraîche, shallot, zest, lemon juice, mustard, salt and pepper in a small bowl.
  2. Slowly add the olive oil in a steady stream, whisking constantly. The vinaigrette should be smooth and well combined. Use with your favourite salad or on vegetables.
  3. Enjoy!

Note:  The artichokes serve 6 people and should be eaten warm or at room temperature. The vinaigrette recipe will yield about a cup. Extra vinaigrette should be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

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WCC #4: Lemony Bread-Pudding French Toast

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What is that glorious scent? Something warm and eggy in the air is pulling me out of a deep sleep. It’s calling me, more and more forcefully, urging me to wake up and make my way to the kitchen.

Incredibly I resist wakefulness. I’m so tired. I went to bed at 3:30 a.m. after baking the crust for a lemon meringue tart that we’ll be enjoying after our Easter feast. I’m soooooo tired. I can’t get up! I won’t get up!

But wait … there it is again. That mouth-watering smell now yanking at my senses and literally pulling my eyelids open. My head makes its own way from out under the covers, all the better to get at that olfactory feast in the air. Before I know it, my hands are reaching out and stretching. I can’t take it anymore. Even though I’m still bone-tired, I have to get up and discover what the yumminess is that has awoken me.

Dscn1610Bleary-eyed I make my way gingerly down the stairs. I shuffle into the kitchen and am instantly enveloped in the oven’s warmth. And perched on the stove, like a trophy, is the source of the aroma that is making my mouth water in anticipation. It’s the pan of Lemony Bread-Pudding French Toast that I’d prepared the night before … or wait … was it in the wee hours of this same morning? Hmmm … don’t remember and quite frankly don’t care either!

I rush to the refrigerator and dig madly for the little tub of crème fraîche hiding behind two legs of lamb, bunches of broccoli raab, stuffed olives waiting to be fried, the lemon curd filling for my tart, green beans, two huge bags of salad that I painstakingly washed, a container of artichoke pâté for the antipasto, a hunk of Gorgonzola, more lemons than I can count, a package containing a pound and a half of thinly-sliced Prosciutto di Parma, grape tomatoes and a beautiful bunch of red grapes. Somewhere, behind all that food, my now wide-awake fingers find the precious tub. As I pull my arm out I almost knock over a bottle of Riesling, but at this point I’m too frantic to care.

I serve myself a most generous slice of french toast, pile on the crème fraîche and drown it all in pure maple syrup. I’m not even fully-seated at the kitchen table before I already have a huge piece of french toast in my mouth. I look like Nigella Lawson downing Yorkshire pudding covered in cream and golden syrup. But I don’t care. I’m in heaven.

And then it slowly comes back to me. I remember buying the white sandwich bread at the supermarket (yes … I know … refined white bread is bad for you but what can I say … it’s my weakness). I remember mixing together eggs and milk and deciding to use five eggs even though the recipe called for six. I remember buttering a glass baking dish and stacking twelve slices of bread in four piles of three. I remember pouring the egg and milk mixture on the bread and mushing it down with my fingers. I remember covering the dish and tucking it away in the refrigerator (how did I manage to close the door with all that food in there?) to sit overnight.

The rest is a blur. Something to do with a tart crust, washing salad, using the food processor to make an artichoke appetizer and stumbling into bed exhausted. The unbelievably luscious french toast has now revived me enough to figure out that my lovely mamma put the dish in the oven about an hour earlier to bake into a puffed and golden dish of goodness.

And of course, I now remember that this was my contribution to the fourth Weekend Cookbook Challenge hosted by Alicat of Something So Clever and Sara of I Like to Cook.

But most importantly, I remember that it’s Easter morning. The sun is shining. My mother and I are enjoying our brunch dish, feeling our spirits lift and energizing ourselves for the hours to come when we will be preparing lunch for thirteen people.

I remember. And I am so happy.

Ciao!

Lemony Bread-Pudding French Toast

Adapted from Lemon Zest by Lori Longbotham.

  • 2 cups whole milk
  • 2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest
  • 5 large eggs (original recipe uses 6 eggs)
  • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 12 slices white bread (I used Wonder Bread, but Lori suggests using Pepperidge Farm Original White bread.)
  • 1/3 cup packed dark brown sugar
  • 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted  butter, at room temperature
  • pure maple syrup
  1. Bring the milk just to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the lemon zest. Allow to steep for 10 minutes and then pour the milk through a sieve to remove the zest. Allow the milk to cool for an additional 15 minutes.
  2. Whisk together the eggs and vanilla extract. Add the milk and whisk well.
  3. Butter an 8-inch square glass baking dish. Arrange the bread in the dish in 4 stacks of 3 slices. You may have to squish the sides of the bread together to get it all to fit in.
  4. Slowly pour the egg/milk mixture over the bread. You may have to stop every once and a while to allow the liquid to seep in. Once you’ve poured it all in, press down on the bread with your fingers to submerge the bread. Cover the dish and refrigerate it overnight.
  5. In the morning, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
  6. In a small bowl, combine the butter and brown sugar into a paste. Spread over the top of the french toast.
  7. Bake the french toast for an hour or until a knife inserted in the centre comes out clean.
  8. Let the french toast cool for 10 minutes and then serve with maple syrup and crème fraîche if you have it!
  9. Enjoy!

Note:  This recipe serves 4 to 6 people. The only recommendation that I would make that is different from the original recipe is that you put the dish on a baking sheet before putting it into the oven. It rises quite a bit and you may have some liquid fall over the side onto the floor of your oven. The baking sheet will protect your oven from any spills.

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My Mother’s Easter Bread

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It’s almost 2:30 a.m., early (very early!) on Easter Sunday morning, and here I am in front of the computer. What in the world am I doing up, you ask? Well for one thing I’m waiting for the crust that I prepared for my lemon meringue tart to chill. Another 10 minutes or so and I can pop it in the oven. Once that’s done, I’m off to bed. The lemon filling is safe in the refrigerator and I will prepare the meringue topping tomorrow morning.

But the tart is not the only reason that I’m still awake. In fact, even if the the tart were done, I’d still be sitting here, staring at the screen. To be honest, I can’t bring myself to go to sleep until I find a way to put into words my feelings on Easter and my mother’s Easter bread.

I am so blessed. As I delve deeper into the life of my blog, I am coming to understand how blessed I am to have so many rich food traditions in my life. And not just because it means I get to eat a lot of great food. It’s also because so many of my best memories, the ones that I cherish most, involve those very traditions.

And perhaps nothing represents this more than my mother’s Easter bread.

The recipe for this Easter sweet, along with my mother and my grandmother, came to Canada in 1957 on a boat called the Cristofero Colombo. The recipe arrived in Halifax and then made it’s way to Toronto, where for more than 40 years it was the centrepiece of Easter at my grandmother’s house in Little Italy. And then two years ago, when my grandmother passed away, it became the defining symbol of Easter in the home in which I live.

Like so many of the dishes that come from other places, far away, from a world far removed from the one we live in now, this recipe was altered to suit the new land in which my mother’s family found themselves. Whatever fat my grandmother used in Italy was substituted with vegetable oil. The eggs, which would have come from my grandmother’s own chickens in Italy, came from the grocery store. The yeast, which would most certainly have been fresh yeast in Italy, was now dried yeast that came in a packet.

And just as my grandmother and mother adapted to their new home, along with my grandfather who had already lived in Canada for a few years, so too did this recipe. It shaped itself to suit the new life that my mother’s family was forging for themselves.

This yeasty, eggy bread is THE symbol of Easter for me. The merest whiff of the elusive scent of anise, used to flavour the bread, fills me with the joyousness that the Easter season brings with it. I am joyous because the warm weather has returned. The birds have come back to visit us. The sun is bright and welcoming.

And today, almost 40 years after this recipe came to Canada, it continues to be the link between a world that was left behind and a world where a new life was born.

Buona Pasqua!

My Mother’s Easter Bread

Treasured family recipe.

Dscn1592_1Note:  Like so many recipes that come from other countries, the measurements here have been interpreted over the years to suit the needs of a very large family! I have cut the original recipe by one-third, as the original (just to give you an idea) calls for 16 cups of flour! If you have any problems with the recipe, or would like to ask questions about the measurements before you begin, just drop me a note.

  • 1 packet active dry yeast
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 2/3 cup vegetable oil
  • Dscn15802/3 cup whole milk (do not use low fat or non fat milk)
  • 2 teaspoons spirit of anise (if you cannot find spirit of anise try anise extract)
  • 4 cups all-purpose flour (you may need more to form a dough)
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  1. Follow the directions on the packet of yeast and dissolve in warm water. Wait 10 minutes for the yeast to foam.
  2. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the sugar until smooth.
  3. Dscn1587Add the vegetable oil, milk and anise and mix well.
  4. Add the yeast mixture and mix well.
  5. Add the four cups of flour and the salt and stir with a fork or a wooden spoon. (My mother always does this with a fork.) Eventually a soft dough will form. Continue adding flour until you can gather the dough into a ball.
  6. Turn the dough onto a work surface and knead for 10 minutes. The dough should be smooth and not sticky. If the dough is sticky, continue to work in a few tablespoonfuls of flour at a time until you have a smooth dough.
  7. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes and then begin forming the bread.
  8. Cut off a piece of dough that’s about 3 inches in size. Roll the dough into a ball and then place on a work surface and roll the dough into a strip that’s about 1/2 an inch to an inch in diameter and about 6 inches long. Form a circle with the strip of dough, pressing the ends together.
  9. Dscn1588Place the dough circle on a cloth in a warm area. Continue forming the dough circles. Once the dough has been completely used, cover the rings with a cloth and let rise for 2 to 3 hours.
  10. To bake the rings, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F and line two baking sheets with parchment paper.
  11. Brush the tops of the rings with an egg wash (one egg beaten with a tablespoon of water) and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the rings.
  12. Dscn1590If you’re feeling adventurous, you can make more decorative bread by creating braids. It’s up to you. You can also garnish each ring or braid with a boiled egg. To do so, hard boil some eggs prior to baking the bread. Let the eggs cool down. When you’ve formed your ring or braid, place the egg on the bread and let the bread rise with the egg on it. The eggs will be fine in the oven and you can even eat them if you wish once the bread has been baked.
  13. Enjoy!

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A Plate of Lemon Happiness

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This is the recipe for a plate of lemon happiness:

Cream.

Lemon zest.

Butter.

Parmigiano Reggiano.

Fettuccine.

So what are you waiting for?

Ciao!

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Creamy Lemon Fettuccine

Adapted from Lemon Zest by Lori Longbotham.

  • 1 cup heavy cream (35% cream)
  • 2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 1 pound dried fettuccine
  • salt and pepper to taste
  1. Heat the cream in a small pot until it’s just about to come to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the lemon zest. Set aside for 10 minutes. Drain the cream through a sieve to remove the lemon zest.
  2. Put a large pot of water to boil; once it comes to a boil add the fettuccine and cook according to package directions.
  3. As the fettuccine cook, melt the butter in a large pan (large enough to accommodate the fettuccine). Add the lemon cream and bring to a boil; add a bit of salt and pepper (taste to make sure that it’s to your liking; add more salt if necessary). Lower the heat and let the cream simmer; it will reduce slightly and thicken.
  4. As soon as the fettuccine are cooked add them to the cream mixture. Immediately add the Parmigiano Reggiano and toss gently until all the fettuccine are covered in the sauce. As you toss the pasta, the melting Parmigiano and the starch from the pasta will combine to thicken the sauce further. Serve the pasta immediately with additional Parmigiano.
  5. Enjoy!

Note:  This recipe will serve 6 to 8 people. You can cut it in half. The original recipe does not include Parmigiano Reggiano, but as I am of the belief that Parmigiano makes everything taste better, I added lots of it!

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A Zesty Beginning

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"How beautiful it is to do nothing, and then rest afterwards."

Spanish Proverb

How I am hoping to truly discover the meaning of this proverb over the course of the next week! After a hectic beginning to 2006, I’m happy to say that I have a few days to myself. So today is a beginning of sorts for me. It’s the beginning of a week of days that I’m hoping to spend in quiet enjoyment of so many of the things that I often miss … that we all often miss … while living our busy lives.

I want to enjoy the spring weather that has finally come to Toronto. I want to enjoy the Easter season and all of the lovely traditions and food the season brings with it. And I especially want to enjoy the moments of stillness, where there are no chores to get to, meetings to run to, and endless errands to get done. There’s just the prospect of the hours that stretch before you, for you to do with them as you please.

As I contemplate the beginning of my mini-holiday, I’ve also been thinking about Easter lunch on Sunday. While my mother usually handles the meal (you’ll read all about it I assure you), I usually fill in for duty in the antipasti and dessert department. Dessert is covered, but the antipasti are up in the air.

Strangely, I always find the antipasto the most difficult part of the meal to prepare. Antipasto is Italian for "before the meal" and while it can be referred to as appetizer, it’s not quite the same thing.

For Italians, the purpose of the antipasto is to wake the mouth up and prepare the stomach for the meal that is about to come. Antipasti (the plural of antipasto) should always be small and provocative, but never overpowering. They should be memorable, but never the only thing you remember about the meal.

The antipasto, you see, is a delicate art.

The best antipasti are usually the simplest. A slice of paper-thin prosciutto with a perfectly ripe fig  … fragrant mushrooms, sauteed briefly in butter with a shaving of Parmigiano Reggiano and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar … the perfect late-summer tomato, quartered and touched with a few drops of olive oil alongside the freshest bocconcino. So simple and yet, not as easy as you might think.

You see you can’t cheat with the antipasto; it’s only as good as good as the ingredients you use. A supermarket tomato purchased during the month of April, when tomato season is still a long way off, just won’t cut it. The antipasto is unforgiving.

So as I find myself facing the beginning of my mini-holiday and contemplating the beginning of Easter lunch, I turned to Lori Longbotham’s Lemon Zest, the Flavour of the Month for April 2006, and I knew exactly which recipe to try:  Lemon and Fig Tapenade.

Dolloped onto a piece of bread covered with a slice of mild goat cheese, I had a feeling that this might just be the right antipasto. I’m glad to say I wasn’t disappointed. The tapenade, which included the unusual addition of dried Black Mission figs, was sweet, salty and briny (thanks to the olives) all at the same time. But underneath those flavours, was the steadying presence of lemon, both in the form of lemon zest and the Lemon Oil that I had at the ready. Paired with a slightly tangy, soft goat cheese, it was a bite to awaken the senses. And as with all really good antipasti, it was simple to make. I do believe I’ve found my antipasto for Easter lunch!

And so now that I have spent some doing nothing but thinking about how to begin enjoying both a few days off and the pleasure of a meal to come, I shall do as the Spanish do and rest.

Ciao!

Lemon and Fig Tapenade

Adapted from Lemon Zest by Lori Longbotham.

  • 2 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 2 dried Black Mission figs, stems discarded, quartered
  • 2 anchovy fillets
  • 1 cup brine-cured black olives, pitted (I used Kalamata olives.)
  • 1 tablespoon drained capers
  • 3 tablespoons Lemon Oil or olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 2 teaspoons brandy
  • a pinch of freshly-ground pepper
  1. Turn on the food processor and add the garlic cloves to the bowl with the motor running. Once the garlic is finely chopped, drop in the figs and anchovies. Continue to process until finely chopped.
  2. Add the olives and capers and again process until finely chopped.
  3. Transfer the mixture to a bowl or a container with a lid. Add the Lemon Oil or olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, brandy and pepper. Mix well and taste. Adjust the seasonings to suit your tastes.
  4. Either serve the tapenade immediately, or refrigerate in a covered container. Bring the tapenade to room temperature before serving.
  5. Enjoy!

Note:  This makes about 1 cup of tapenade. Instead of brandy, you can use Cognac. Lori suggests serving the tapenade with a mild goat cheese (which is what I did). Don’t forget to add lots of crusty bread!

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Cream Puff Goes to School: Week 1

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Today I attended my first Basic Baking class at George Brown College. I’m hoping that this course will be the beginning of my journey towards a Baking Certificate. Classes are every Saturday morning from 8:30 to 12:30. While we don’t have to wear chef apparel, we are expected to wear an apron and to have all of our equipment for that class at the ready. We’re also expected to have all of our ingredients ready and measured out for the beginning of class.

While it certainly isn’t the same setting as a full-time culinary school course for individuals who want to be chefs, I was surprised at how "professional" it did feel. I mean don’t get me wrong. Upon completion of this course it’s not like the famous pastry shops of the world will be lining up to hire any of us. But still … I really felt like a culinary school student. And as such, I quickly decided that I had to put aside everything that I thought I knew about baking, and open my mind to my first experience in formal culinary instruction.

Today’s class was dedicated mostly to introducing us to food safety rules, the equipment we’ll be using in class, the tools we’ll need to buy and the subject matter we’ll be covering. Eventually though, we did begin our first lesson which focussed on pie dough. While we didn’t actually bake a pie, we practiced the techniques of mixing flour and shortening and rolling out dough.

Because this course is part of the Continuing Education program, the assumption is that most individuals are there to improve their skills as home cooks and bakers. As a result, our instructor indicated that every effort is made to accommodate various cultural and religious requirements, including the rule that we do not use any animal fats in class. This means we didn’t make our pie crust with butter, but rather with vegetable shortening. Now I don’t necessarily have a problem using vegetable shortening, but I do have a bit of a problem with not using butter. I’m not completely certain if this will continue throughout the course, but if it does, you’ll be sure to hear back from me about that!

The lesson in the making of pie dough was very interesting. I consider myself very experienced in making pies as I’ve been making them for years. But already I learned that some of my "technique" wasn’t very good. For example, I realized that I wasn’t using my rolling pin properly. The instructor indicated that a rolling pin should be used lightly to roll the dough from the centre out and that the dough should be turned as you go. I’ve never done that at home. In fact, I have a tendency to press down on the rolling pin when I use it. And I now realize that by pressing down, I would often end up with dough that was not evenly rolled out. I never worried about it much, and I still don’t think it’s a huge deal, but now that I know that there’s a better way to use my rolling pin, I will make every effort to do so.

The other issue that came up for me was my ongoing battle with patience. I often tell people that the reason I like to bake so much is that it’s relaxing. And yet, I can be very impatient in the kitchen. When it came time to make the pie dough today, I rushed through the first steps of mixing in the shortening and adding the water. I did this because I’ve done it so many times before, I just figured I knew what I was doing. It’s almost like I felt like I had to get that dough done as soon as possible so that I could show the instructor that I knew how to do it. Because I rushed I didn’t add the right amount of water. While the dough turned out well, it was a bit on the dry side.

I realized that I tend to do that often. I don’t take the time to measure out ingredients properly. Or worse, I don’t always take the time to read a recipe through. I realized that while I may have finished my pie dough before anyone else, it wasn’t the best pie dough that I could have made. I sacrificed the quality of dough simply to appease my own sense of urgency in getting the job done.

I won’t make that mistake again. I am really going to work hard, both in class and at home, at taking the time to get all the steps right. And hopefully that will really improve the quality of the items I bake.

After rolling out our dough and make a practice "rag pie" (a pie filled with tissue paper), it was time to clean up and say goodbye. We won’t actually begin baking until the second class, which is in two weeks as there is no class over Easter weekend. First up on our list of items to bake is an apple pie!

Our teacher for the course is a full-time baking instructor at the George Brown Culinary School. He’s been a pastry chef for 30 years having graduated from George Brown himself. Pleasant and encouraging, I really liked the way he ran the class. After the introductions and explanations were over, he demonstrated every step of the pie dough process, and did so while mixing in valuable information and a lot of humour.

But there are two other reasons why I know I’m really going to enjoy his instruction. The first reason is his introduction to the pie dough making portion of the class. He talked about apple pie and explained that even after 30 years of pastry-making, he would take a well-made apple pie any day over any other fancy dessert. He pointed out that when a baked good is well-made, the level of difficulty of the recipe or the fanciness of the decoration become insignificant. It’s all about the taste.

The second reason is his response to a woman in our class who asked if she could make pie dough with whole wheat flour in order to make "healthier" pie. After he wiped the look of horror from his face, he politely explained that the best way to "make pie low-fat" is to only eat a slice and not the whole pie.

I can tell I’m going to like this guy.

Ciao!

Some News, A Recipe and a MEME

Things are very exciting in Cream Puff world folks! I have some news for you today, plus a recipe that you must all try, and to round things out, a MEME response that is long overdue.

First things first … the news:

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Are you a Canadian blogger who’s green with envy after reading about all the incredibly delicious goodies that European bloggers have been sending each other by mail? Well it’s time we did something about it! Canadian Bloggers Unite!

Sweet Pleasure: Plaisir Sucre’, The Candied Quince and Cream Puffs in Venice are hosting the first Canadian Blogging by Post event. You can read all of the details here. If you’re interested, and we hope you are, e-mail Sam so that you’ll be included in the list of participating bloggers.

It’s bound to be tremendous fun and it’s also a great way to meet some fellow Canadian bloggers!

On to the next news item:

Even though I’ve only been blogging for about four months, the baking floodgates have really opened for me. I always knew that I loved baking, but even I’m surprised at the passion and drive that’s emerged from this Cream Puff. Rather than just sitting idly by, I thought it was time I did something about it.

While I wish I could say that I’m running off to Le Cordon Bleu or the French Culinary Institute, that’s just not in the cards right now. However, I have enrolled in the first course of what will hopefully end up being a Bakery Arts Certificate from the Culinary Arts School at George Brown College in Toronto.

While it may not be as famous as other cooking schools, George Brown has a solid culinary arts program and has produced many great chefs. This doesn’t mean that I’m going to run off and become a pastry chef. It does mean that I really feel that it’s time that I focus my energy and explore this passion that I have for baking.

My first course, Basic Baking, begins Saturday April 8th. I look forward to sharing my adventure with all of you and hope that you’ll join this Cream Puff for the ride. At the very least we can all enjoy some baking together … and as I always say, life would be so much better if we all baked more!

And finally, speaking of baking, quite awhile ago a certain cupcake recipe seemed to make its rounds in blog world. I arrived a bit late on the scene, but fortunately I caught the tail end of it and simply must share it with all of you again in case some of you missed it. I speak of the incredible self-frosting cupcakes that first appeared on the endlessly talented Nic’s blog, Bakingsheet. I found out about the cupcakes from the incredible Barbara of Winosandfoodies.com.

Pic_to_use_9Of course anything with nutella instantly has me hooked. I followed Nic’s recipe and knew that I had a huge hit. I made the cupcakes on three different occasions and each time they disappeared before they could even cool down. So last weekend, I decided to make them again.

I prepared my ingredients, I mixed the batter, I filled the cupcake liners and then I went to get the jar of nutella to add the final touch.

But wait. Where’s the nutella?

That’s right folks … that earth-shattering scream you heard … was Cream Puff as she realized that there was no nutella in the house! As my cupcake batter was waiting, I had to make a quick decision so I reached for the peanut butter, when I suddenly remembered that I had a container of dulce de leche in the refrigerator.

Dulce de leche? As a replacement for nutella? Could it be?

Oh yes it could! And what a replacement! It was amazing … if you’re interested, simply follow Nic’s recipe but instead of nutella, use dulce de leche. You’ll have a hit on your hands … believe me!

Well that’s it for this edition of Cream Puff news. I’d like to end my post with a MEME response that is long overdue. I thank Mary of La Tavola and Anne of AnneCuisine, both of whom tagged me for this one. Thanks ladies!

Four jobs you’ve had in your life:

  1. Writer/editor
  2. Librarian’s assistant
  3. Receptionist
  4. Shoemaker (yes you read that correctly … when your father owns a shoe company … you learn how to make shoes!)

Four movies you’d like to watch over and over:

  1. The Sound of Music
  2. The Lord of the Rings Trilogy
  3. Billy Elliot
  4. Babette’s Feast

Four places you’ve lived:

This Cream Puff has only ever lived in the amazing and incredible city of Toronto!

Four TV shows you love to watch:

  1. The Amazing Race
  2. Rosemary and Thyme (wonderful British show)
  3. The Barefoot Contessa
  4. Hockey Night in Canada

Four places you’ve been on vacation:

  1. Ascoli Piceno, Italy
  2. Boston, USA
  3. San Francisco, California
  4. Montreal, Canada

Four websites I visit daily:

  1. La Tartine Gourmande
  2. The Toronto Star
  3. Epicurious
  4. Bloglines

Four of my favourite foods:

  1. Chocolate
  2. Bread
  3. Potatoes
  4. Champagne

Four places I’d rather be right now:

  1. I’d rather be in Rome, having an espresso.
  2. I’d rather be in my father’s town in Italy, watching the sun rise over the hills.
  3. I’d rather be in San Francisco, at the Ferry Building Marketplace, eating Cowgirl Creamery Cheese, Acme Bread and sipping some sparkling wine.
  4. I’d rather be in Stockholm, Sweden, wishing my good friend IK a very happy birthday (belated)!

Four bloggers I am tagging:

Since this MEME has already made it’s way around the blogosphere, I’ll leave it open-ended. If you want to tag yourself … you’re it!

In closing I’d also like to thank the lovely Patricia of P.A. Moed who tagged me for the MEME in 7 Parts. You can see my response to that one here. Thanks Patricia!

Stay tuned to Cream Puffs in Venice for more on the loveliness of lemons in April.

Ciao!

May I Offer You an Olive?

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Hard day at work? Long day at school? Busy day getting the house in order?

Don’t worry about it. Come in. Take your shoes off. Sit down and make yourself at home. Cream Puff’s house is your house.

Here’s a cool glass of crisp Prosecco. And right here, in front of you, is a lovely dish of Green Olives with Lemon Oil, Fennel and Garlic. Don’t be shy … go ahead and try one … I insist!

After all, you’ve had a hard day at work. A long day at school. A busy day at home.

Go ahead. You deserve it!

Ciao!

Green Olives with Lemon, Fennel and Garlic

Adapted from Lemon Zest by Lori Longbotham.

  • 2 cups cracked green Mediterranean olives
  • 6 thin lemon slices, seeded
  • 3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed with the side of a knife
  • Dscn15132 tablespoons Lemon Oil (click here for the recipe)
  • 1 teaspoon crushed fennel seeds
  • 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)
  • 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
  1. Mix all of the ingredients in a bowl.
  2. Refrigerate (covered or in a container with a lid) for at least 1 day.
  3. Serve at room temperature.

Note:  This will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. The original recipe used coriander seeds but I’m not a huge fan so I used fennel.

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The Month of Lemon

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And so begins the month of April.

I love this month and with good reason. For starters, so many people that I love and care about were born in this month. My parents were married in April. Even though spring officially comes in March, here in Toronto, its first signs are usually visible in April. It’s the month when I look to the garden and finally begin planning again. Winter’s hold is officially over and come May, I know I’ll be out there deciding which new flowers to try this year, caring for my lavender, and planting the seemingly endless number of tomato plants. And of course, this year, we celebrate Easter on April 16th.

It really is the month of beginnings and celebrations.

In an attempt to find out a bit more about the origin of the month’s name, I found that the word April is believed to come from the Latin "aprillis", which roughly translated means "aperire" or "to open". Much lore surrounds the name of April, including the belief that it is possibly named after the Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and beauty. It’s also believed that the Anglo-Saxons referred to April as "Oster-monath" or "Eostur-monath", after Ostara or Eostre, the Saxon goddess of spring.

In a further explanation of why I love this month, I also discovered that the flowers of April are the daisy and, my favourite flower of all, the sweet pea. But ultimately, I think the reason why I love April so much is that I associate it with lemons. I’m not sure when this association began, I just know that come April, I go lemon crazy. I start filling the house with bowls of lemons. I take out yellow linens. I plan when I will bake my most favourite lemon dessert of all (you’ll read about this later this month). This year I even bought a new lemon zester!

I think it’s the bright yellow colour and that fragrance that just makes me so happy. It fills me with a sense of excitement and makes me want to get going, which is nice after the months of Canadian winter spent huddled indoors. Don’t get me wrong, huddling is nice, but the time does come when you can’t wait to throw off those blankets and welcome the sun and the warmth.

Naturally, when I was looking for my choice for the Cream Puffs in Venice Flavour of the Month for April 2006, I went directly to The Overburdened Bookshelf and chose Lori Longbotham’s Lemon Zest. This small, neat book is a monument to lemons in all their glory. And if you pick up a copy, don’t be fooled by the size. It’s packed full of incredible recipes and tips on how to use lemons in cooking and for a multitude of other purposes around the house.

The fact that this cookbook is written by Lori Longbotham also helps. I love Lori. Besides Lemon Zest I own Luscious Chocolate Desserts and I promise you that one day soon, Luscious Lemon Desserts will be mine as well. An accomplished author, Lori’s cookbooks are so appealing because it’s clear that she truly loves her subject, whether it’s lemon or chocolate. I look forward to treating all of you to many recipes from Lemon Zest throughout this month.

To get you started, I think you might find the recipe for Lemon Oil, from Lori’s book, most interesting. I’ve made flavoured oil in the past using red pepper flakes or rosemary, but never lemon zest. Not only was this oil easy to make, the results are incredible. The pairing of extra virgin olive oil with the fragrant and assertive flavour of lemon zest really surprised me. I love this oil and can’t wait to use it throughout the month.

April and lemons … for me they are linked.

Oh … by the way … while researching the month of April I also read that the birthstone for the month is the diamond … a girl’s (and a cream puff’s) best friend!

Ciao!

Lemon Oil

Recipe from Lemon Zest by Lori Longbotham.

  • 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest (try and use unwaxed lemons if you can find them)
  1. Pour the olive into a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Add the lemon zest and seal the jar. Shake well.
  2. Refrigerate the oil and lemon for at least three weeks. Once or twice a day give the jar a shake. If the oil hardens in the refrigerator, simply take it out and let it sit for a bit at room temperature and it will return to liquid form.
  3. After three weeks, strain the oil through a sieve. Pour the oil into a jar and store in the refrigerator. It’s now ready to use in salad dressings, with vegetables, or however you choose.
  4. Enjoy!

Note:  Research for this post is from www.wikipedia.org. To read more about Lori Longbotham, visit her site at www.lorilongbotham.com.

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