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“Enjoy With Reckless Abandon!”

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Dscn2019

"Enjoy with reckless abandon …"

These are the words that are written on the first page of my copy of Donna Dooher and Claire Stubb’s Out to Brunch, the Cream Puffs in Venice Flavour of the Month for May 2006. How did I come by this autographed copy of such a wonderful book? Let me explain.

As you may have already guessed my entire family shares the philosophy of good food. So it’s not surprising that we are all, in our own way, deeply involved in the pursuit of good food. One of my uncles, Uncle C, has been a waiter for years and as luck would have it, his path brought him to the doors of Mildred Pierce, the restaurant from which the recipes for Out to Brunch come.

Uncle C spent many years at Mildred Pierce before eventually moving on. But during his time there, he developed a strong friendship with the restaurant’s owners. When Out to Brunch was published, knowing how much I loved the restaurant and how much I coveted the cookbook, he had Donna Dooher autograph a copy for me and her words to me were … enjoy with reckless abandon.

How refreshing!

How refreshing to read the words of an accomplished woman who is not afraid of eggs and butter and cream.

How refreshing to know that there is someone else out there who embraces the joy of food and eating without any guilt.

How refreshing, indeed!

Don’t get me wrong. I’m not advocating that you spend your days gorging on eggs, sugar, cream and butter. As lovely as blueberry pancakes are and as much as I love my goopy squares, the food universe is too enormous to imagine and it would be a shame not try everything … not to enjoy everything whether it be a vegetable, a piece of cheese or the best piece of chocolate cake you’ve ever laid eyes on.

But I am advocating enjoying your food. I am advocating turning off that stupid little voice that says "This is bad for you," or "You shouldn’t be eating that," because ultimately, food is not bad. What we do with our food, or don’t do with it, is what harms us.

Donna’s book is a constant reminder that a meal, in this case brunch, is what you make of it. You can deny yourself and feel a sense of pleasure over having denied yourself or you can choose to make all foods a part of your life and give up the silly guilt over that cookie you’ve had your eye on.

If you’re in the market for a trusty brunch book, look into Out to Brunch. You know that this Cream Puff does not recommend books lightly. I test as many recipes as I can and I have to feel a connection. Out to Brunch passes the test on all counts. And if you’re ever in Toronto, take the time to visit Mildred Pierce for a meal. You won’t regret it.

And so he we are, my friends. The month of May prepares to make its exit and June readies itself for the stage. Soon there will be a new Flavour of the Month and we will all be enjoying the fruits of June. But before we get there, there is time for Mildred to take her final bow.

For the grand finale, I chose a dessert that I am in the habit of describing as the King of Desserts … the crème brûlée. The Mildred Pierce version is a lovely concoction of cream and caramel. It’s light with just the right note of caramelly sweetness. It’s a beautiful thing.

And I leave you with the words that I have come to love … enjoy with reckless abandon!

Ciao!

Dscn2000

Caramel Crème Brûlée

Adapted from Out to Brunch by Donna Dooher and Claire Stubbs.

  • 3 cups heavy cream (35% cream)
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • 6 large egg yolks
  • extra white sugar for the brulee tops
  1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.
  2. Heat the cream in a saucepan just until it begins to boil. Remove from the heat and set aside while you prepare the custard base.
  3. Combine the sugar and water in another saucepan. Cook over high heat until the mixture turns a light amber, 5 to 7 minutes (have a bowl of ice water nearby just in case of splatters or in case you need to quickly cool down the caramel by plunging the bottom of the pot into the ice water).
  4. As soon as the mixture has turned a light amber, remove from the heat and carefully add the cream. The mixture will bubble furiously so take extra care.
  5. In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks with a small amount of the caramel cream to temper the eggs. While whisking continuously, slowly add the remainder of the caramel cream.
  6. Strain your mixture through a fine-mesh sieve and then pour the custard into 6 ramekins (ramekins should have a 1/2 cup capacity).
  7. Place the ramekins in a large baking pan and fill the pan with hot water so that it comes about halfway up the sides of the ramekins.
  8. Carefully transfer the pan to the oven. Bake the custards for 45 to 50 minutes or until just set. The centre of the custards will jiggle slightly. Remove from the oven and let stand for half an hour.
  9. Remove the ramekins and refrigerate until cold (at least 4 hours).
  10. Before serving, spread 1 teaspoon of sugar across the top of each custard. Using a kitchen torch, brûlée the sugar until it has turned golden.
  11. Enjoy!

Note:  Keep leftover custards in the refrigerator for no more than 2 days … if they even last that long.

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49 Comments

rob

05/31/06 at 1:11 am

Ivonne, this is fantastic. I am a huge, huge fan of creme brulee, and, as I wrote in during Winterlicious, I think Mildred Pierce makes some of the best around:

http://hungryinhogtown.typepad.com/hungry_in_hogtown/2006/02/you_had_me_at_b.html

I am thrilled that you made this your monthly theme, and I am, as alway, sad to see yet another of your themes go.

I also wholeheartedly endorse your endorsement of Mildred Pierce. They also have a spectacular Sunday brunch.

sam

05/31/06 at 2:04 am

I heard she made a good thing, I heard she had a style,
And so I came to see her and covet for a while.
And there she was this young girl, stranger to my eyes,
Strumming desire with her fingers,
Showing my lust with her food,
Killing me softly with her blog,
Killing me softly with her blog,

Francesca

05/31/06 at 4:28 am

La foto inziale dà proprio l’idea di un gusto prelibato;P

Tanna

05/31/06 at 4:46 am

Lovely words, Reckless abandon. You’ve ended May with one of my very favorites!

Gracianne

05/31/06 at 5:27 am

D’accord, je m’abandonne, Madame l’Epicurienne!

Lis

05/31/06 at 9:04 am

I’ve never had this desert.. I’ve heard of it, I’ve dreamed about it.. but never ordered it out or tried it at home. You’ve convinced me that I can not allow myself this injustice! Thanks for the great recipe and pictures.. you’ve given me the inspiration to make this fabulous desert myself!

Sil (Bs As)

05/31/06 at 9:28 am

Stunning! as always…
I rarely use those “ramekins” (?) I have…so this is a great opportunity.

Kate

05/31/06 at 9:50 am

*salivates, dies*

What a gorgeous picture! I just made it my desktop. Although that might be dangerous…

The thing that keeps me from making creme brulee, though it’s one of my very favorites, is that i don’t have a kitchen torch. I guess I ought to just break down and buy one, huh?

Jennifer

05/31/06 at 10:02 am

Wonderful advice, Ivonne; reckless abandon, indeed.

And I guess we should not be too surprised that creme brulee is also one of my favorite desserts? I love the caramel step; I’ll have to try that next time I make it.

A beautiful crispy bruleed crust, by the way, bravo!

Kat

05/31/06 at 10:08 am

what a great post, Ivonne!

Anita

05/31/06 at 10:55 am

Ivonne,
A beautiful creme brulee like yours should be enjoyed with reckless abandon. Thanks for all your inspirational recipes this month!

Melissa

05/31/06 at 11:06 am

This looks AMAZING! Thanks for a wonderful swan song to May.

jenjen

05/31/06 at 11:07 am

Hello,
Creme Brulee has to be one of my favourite desserts. Your photographs just make them look even more delicious. Especially the first one where the smooth shiny custard is peeking out from the crispy sugar crust….. drool-worthy.

verniciousknids

05/31/06 at 11:15 am

Fantastic advice…for food and life!

Tanvi

05/31/06 at 1:13 pm

Ivonne, this post is lovely. I could not agree with you more- food is not bad! It is meant to be enjoyed, in moderation, without guilt. All around me, I see people depriving themselves of the foods they love, which is no way to live in my opinion. Thanks for your wise words and the recommendation (I still need to get myself to the bookstore!)

Bruno

05/31/06 at 2:06 pm

Hi Ivonne,

What a great way to end the month! Go out w/ a bang w/ creme brulee… so scrumptious!!
I once made a 2 layer creme brulee,dark chocolate and vanilla/tarragon. A lot of extra work, but worth the effort!
Your brulee looks super!!

Bruno

Sonali

05/31/06 at 3:19 pm

Super yummy ! I think you should open a dessert bar ASAP ! I will be the first to visit.

Marilyn

05/31/06 at 3:19 pm

I have NEVER had a creme brulee…anathema, I know. I am dying to try/make one, though, given my propensity for custardy/puddingy treats. Looks fab!

tejal

05/31/06 at 4:22 pm

Ivonne, it definitely is refreshing to hear about women embracing eggs, cream, butter and the likes.

PS I do believe we have the same red and white striped tea towels!

Amy D

05/31/06 at 4:24 pm

Amen!
I too am of the “enjoy-your-food” camp and feel that nothing should be off limits. We all need to practice some self-restraint, but go ahead and enjoy the butter and cream.. but also enjoy the in-season greens and berries!
Discover what you truly enjoy, and then eat the best you can get.

Liza

05/31/06 at 4:53 pm

Great post. You’re so right ! And the crèle brûlée looks gorgeous. One of my favorite desserts…

Callipygia

05/31/06 at 5:31 pm

Ivonne, several friends and I were just saying how creme brulee was up there as our all time favorite decadent dessert. I wholeheartedly agree with you about not fearing our food. I must admit I would probably be suspicious of someone who totally abstained from butter, sugar and chocolate!

Joe

05/31/06 at 11:12 pm

This looks like a great go-to dessert for guests!

Ellie

05/31/06 at 11:49 pm

That first photo is to die for! The custard looks intensely creamy and yum - congratulations on yet another delightful dessert!

julie

06/1/06 at 10:39 am

YUM, YUM, YUM….every time I come over for a visit, I become verrrry hungry for yummy treats!!!!

ejm

06/1/06 at 11:10 am

I’ve only once in my life had a creme caramel that I’ve liked - at a restaurant in Brive, France. (I’m afraid I have never been the biggest fan of creme caramel.) But I have to say that yours looks fabulous, Yvonne! It looks as good as the one in Brive….

It has been years since we’ve been to Mildred Pierce. We just don’t go out that much any more. But we loved it! (I’m glad to hear it’s still as good as ever) It is due to Mildred Pierce that one of our staple summer entertaining dishes is grilled salmon steaks with green peppercorn laced mayonnaise.

-Elizabeth

maura

06/1/06 at 1:17 pm

This is pornography!

ejm

06/1/06 at 1:49 pm

Silly me! Of course, I know that is ‘creme brulee’ and not ‘creme caramel’.

Call me gauche - I have a terrible tendency to lump the two of those into the same camp and call them both ‘blanc mange’, which is another dessert that I’ve never understood anyone actually wanting to serve, let alone eat. :^)

-Elizabeth

Silvia

06/1/06 at 2:31 pm

Ciao Ivonne,
sono ingrassata di 1 kilo solo a guardare la foto.
Domani sarò a casa dal lavoro
(festa della Repubblica) e potrò sperimentare la tua ricetta.
Buona giornata, Silvia

Fabienne

06/1/06 at 3:33 pm

Your cream is really gorgeous, and the cookbook is fantastic … I think i’ll buy it ….

Martha

06/1/06 at 3:41 pm

What a marvelous picture!

That looks very much like my favorite creme brulee recipe, nice and straightforward. I’ve seen some that totally overthink the process, using combinations of milk, cream, half and half, whole eggs, all kinds of nonsense. I like it simple and decadently bad for me.

Sara

06/1/06 at 4:17 pm

Thanks for the cookbook recommendation. I love hearing about books from other people who love food as much as me.

lera

06/1/06 at 10:04 pm

Thanks for sharing this delightful recipe.lovely picture which makes me dive for a bite with a reckless abandon…:)

ceendy

06/1/06 at 10:39 pm

what a treat!
i’ve never made creme brule before. hope this will encourage me to try!

Céline

06/2/06 at 12:28 am

I love the picture, this creamy texture is very tempting!!!

Geneve

06/2/06 at 12:49 am

Your photo captures all that is perfect in a creme brulee. Oh I can practically taste the contrast in textures and the deliciously sweet flavors. Yummmm….

Andreea

06/2/06 at 4:34 am

Oh my god - that looks amazing. I am SUCH a huge fan of creme brulee, i will just have to try this one out

bea at La tartine gourmande

06/2/06 at 7:34 am

Looks like a real food coma situation to me! Gorgeous texture. I can almost feel it!

clare eats

06/2/06 at 9:14 am

kwar!!!
that is a great pic of a most devastingly delish looking creme caramel!

Laura

06/2/06 at 9:57 am

Hi Ivonne,
Your blog looks delicious - makes me want to run out and get the ingredients!
- Laura

Vanessa

06/2/06 at 1:03 pm

this might seem like blasphemy to the cream lovers… but it’s the sugar crust that i love the most. getting to play with a kitchen torch and then tapping it into shards is fantastic. very delicious ivonne!

Helen

06/2/06 at 3:26 pm

What a beautiful post! And thanks for the inspiration to use my newly aquired torch :)

From Our Kitchen

06/2/06 at 8:28 pm

Your creme brulee has a beautiful, crackly crust. That’s my favorite part.

Jaay

06/3/06 at 1:14 am

oh my gosh, Ivonna that looks fantastic!! I can literally feel my mouth watering just looking at the photos.

Yum! Your blog never ceases to amaze me.

Ivonne

06/3/06 at 1:20 am

Those are truly words to eat by.

The creme has such great caramel color.

cath

06/4/06 at 7:53 am

Ivonne, did you save some for us?!

Ivonne

06/5/06 at 3:39 pm

As always, I am blown away by your generous and sweet comments. So glad that you all enjoyed the caramel crème brulée!

Bron

06/5/06 at 11:13 pm

All I can say is… GIMME GIMME GIMME!
Crème brulée ranks right up there with sex and chocolate!! YUMMO!

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