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Cream Puff Goes to School: Weeks 8, 9 and 10

Date: Jun. 24th 2006
Category: Baking Class
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It’s been quite awhile since I’ve posted about my baking course so I’ve decided to combine the last three classes into one post.

On the menu for Week 8:  Spritz Cookies.

Dscn2124Spritz cookies are a type of piped butter cookie common in many European nations, including Sweden and Germany. The main ingredient in the cookie is always butter. While we did use butter in our cookie dough, we also used vegetable shortening. For those of you have read my past posts on the subject of this baking course, you’ll know that we often use vegetable shortening in place of butter. Whether it be a cost-saving measure on the part of the school or simply a reflection of what’s going on in a lot of commercial bakeries, as far as I’m concerned, it’s wrong. I certainly don’t want to sound puritanical. I sometimes make pastry that calls for part butter and part vegetable shortening and I’m fine with that. But a shortbread cookie is supposed to be made of butter.

All butter!

The end result was a cookie that was crumbly and lacking in flavour. While I wasn’t thrilled with the taste of the cookies, I’m glad to say all was not lost. Because spritz cookies are traditionally piped, we got to practice our piping skills again. And this time around it was particularly challenging because the dough we worked with was quite stiff. This meant (thank you Sam for the tip) that it was key not to overfill your pastry bag. We piped logs, rosettes and shells and overall, I don’t think I did too badly. But once again I realized that the key to successful piping is practice … practice … practice!

On the menu for Week 9:  Black Forest Cake.

Dscn2215Who hasn’t walked into a bakery and seen this cake with the maraschino cherries on top? Black Forest Cake, called Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte in German, is a popular cake both in Europe and North America. It is typically made with chocolate cake that has been sliced into layers. Each layer is topped with a cherry filling, cream and, traditionally, kirchwasser or cherry brandy. The cake is believed to have originated in Southern Germany.

Our instructor was very careful to point out that an authentic Black Forest Cake would be one where the layers are soaked in cherry brandy and the filling would be made with sour cherries. While our cakes looked impressive, they didn’t score very high in the authenticity department.

I really love my instructor and am enjoying my time in class immensely, except for one thing:  the ingredients we use. Our chocolate sponge was made with vegetable shortening and it showed. The sponge was dry and completely flavourless. We did not use cherry brandy to wet the sponge layers. Instead, we wet the layers with a simple syrup made of sugar and water. We used whipping cream for the filling and for the frosting we used whipping cream with the addition of a stabilizer so that the cream would hold up to piping.

While my disappointment with some of the ingredients we use continues, I cannot deny that the class has been tremendous in terms of learning and practicing techniques. Once again I got to practice my piping and masking and I find that the more I do it, the more I enjoy it and the more comfortable I become with a piping bag.

Also, we got our first glimpse of the technique of tempering chocolate, a process which involves melting and then cooling chocolate so that it becomes glossy and stable enough to work with either in melted form or in a cooled form. In our case, our instructor melted chocolate and then repeatedly spread it across a large marble slab. As he continuously moved and spread the chocolate, its temperature decreased until it began to solidify. At that point we were able to shave the chocolate, right on the marble slab, using the tip of a large knife. This produced lovely curls which we used to decorate our cake. Later on in the course we will have a lesson dedicated to tempering chocolate and I’m really looking forward to it.

As for the Black Forest Cake, it looked nice but it lacked flavour. If I try it at home, I’ll be doing the Germans proud and making it the old-fashioned way with homemade filling, real cream and lots of that cherry brandy!

On the menu for Week 10:  Swiss Roll.

Dscn2259Next to the class on choux pastry, this was by far my favourite one. We began by preparing a batter that for a simple sponge cake that proves the glory that is an egg. Because we bake in large quantities, our recipe called for 16 eggs … sugar … flour … vanilla and lemon. That’s it! Five simple ingredients that yielded a sponge that was light, airy and flavourful.

We baked our sponge in sheet pans so that we would eventually be able to make Swiss Rolls, which are essentially sponge filled with whatever pleases your fancy and then rolled into logs. The logs are then masked and out come the piping bags to make whatever designs you like. We finished our Swiss Rolls off with sliced blanched almonds and chocolate.

While we had the choice of filling one Swiss Roll with lemon curd and cream and the other with raspberry jam, I chose to fill both of my Swiss Rolls with lemon curd and cream. It being summer I just thought the lemon filling was the right way to go.

The Swiss Rolls were fantastic. I can’t get over how moist the sponge was and how easily it rolled. And the lemon curd and cream were the perfect combination. Our instructor offered different suggestions for decorating the outside of the Swiss Rolls, but I was more than happy with the almonds. They gave a nice crunch to the dessert and contrasted well with the sourness of the filling.

Without a doubt, I will be making this one again!

That’s it for now, folks. There will be no baking class next week as it is a holiday weekend in Canada. Stay tuned for Week 11 in two weeks.

Ciao!

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28 Comments


06/25/06 at 12:31 am

The black forrest looks so beautiful! I’m sorry to hear that the class you attended is skimping on ingredients I also hated that. That’s why the class that I attend often taught by some celebrity chef that is willing to share her expetise and has lots of product endorsements. so that the in her classes she often use the product that she’s endorsing which often is the real stuff!


06/25/06 at 1:31 am

I too am anti-shortening in most recipes…though the banana bread I make is made with it and does not taste the same with out it. But NEVER in butter cookies…boo.
Tempering chocolate is tricky but once you get it, you’ve got it forever.
Your swiss roll looks lovely. I would love to make one but we are having a heat wave(for us) and it is too hot to bake anything right now.

Sharmini

06/25/06 at 2:41 am

The black forest cake looks so beautiful! Love the gorgeous large chocolate curls. Yeah, I’m intimidated by chocolate tempering. Have never had the guts to try it. I’ll wait patiently till you’ve taken that class first ; )

Would you be willing to share how you stabilized the whipped cream in class? What sort of stabilizer did you add? Did it affect the taste? Thank you.


06/25/06 at 2:55 am

Hi Ivonne,

Looks like you have been having fun! I think pastry classes and school is great for exposing you to new pastries and techniques. Once you have that knowledge, do it your way! I agree with you 100% on the shortening issue, why put that in our bodies? Ingredients definitely affect taste.You have once again despite ingredients, managed to make everything look absolutely wonderful!


06/25/06 at 5:27 am

A lot of sweet things, i love …


06/25/06 at 5:43 am

I simply love your swiss roll. So yummy.


06/25/06 at 5:55 am

I am not a fan of shortening either. Call me a baking fundamentalist but I like to stick to good ‘ol butter. Also I don’t like to use hydrogenated fats…and why use it when butter is natural and tastes better.
By the way your creations look beautiful, as always.


06/25/06 at 6:38 am

I had begun to wonder about your classes, but thought that maybe they were over. Glad to hear that you had some interesting classes, except for the ingredient skimping…everything looks wonderful, especially your Swiss roll, it sounds so refreshing with all the lemon and cream!
Butter, butter, butter!
Take care.


06/25/06 at 6:58 am

Regardless of the ingredients (or lack thereof) your cookies, swiss roll & cake look completely scrumptious - you did a beautiful job on all three, Ivonne! :D


06/25/06 at 8:37 am

Hi SimplePleasure,

Thanks so much for stopping by Cream Puffs in Venice! Yes I have been somewhat disappointed with the ingredients. They’re not all bad, but it seems that we use vegetable shortening way too much. Glad to hear that you’re also taking classes. I’ll have to visit your blog and read about it!

Hi Peabody,

I too have some recipes that call for vegetable shortening, like pie pastry. But to use it in cookies just doesn’t seem right. We’re in the middle of a heat wave as well so not much baking going on here either.

Hi Sharmini,

Thanks for stopping by and thanks for the kind words. I’ll e-mail you about the stabilizer.

Hi Sam,

Thanks. You’re sweet! And thanks again for the tip about not overfilling the pastry bag. Hope all is well in Vancouver!

Bonjour Fabienne,

Merci!

Hi Precious Moments,

Thanks so much for stopping by. The swiss roll was by far the best one!

Hi JenJen,

Agreed on all counts! Thanks!

Hi Kat,

Thanks! BUTTER! BUTTER! BUTTER!

Hi Lis,

You’re a sweetie. Thanks!


06/25/06 at 9:54 am

Fascinating. And you’ve now provided the answer to something that has long bugged me about bakery cakes: they look beautiful but taste — ordinary, not worth eating. In fact my description of a “great bakery” is always that it’s a place where everything tastes as good as it looks. Unfortunately, in the States, they are few and far between. In Scandinavia, in France, in England and Scotland … they’re everywhere.


06/25/06 at 10:19 am

Hi Ivonne, this is my first time commenting in your blog, but I’ve been enjoying it now for quite some time! I actually just ordered a copy of ‘Once Upon a Tart’ after reading your delicious posts/successes with it!

I agree with everyone else, the pics from cooking school look fabulous, but I too, am not a fan of substituting shortening for butter. But after seeing your pics, I DO think I’ll be making spritz cookies in the very near future (butter intact)… :)
Thanks!


06/25/06 at 12:35 pm

I was wondering what happened to your Baking class, it’s great to hear more about it, though I’m sorry you still aren’t using butter more!

Your black forest cake looks really good, I remember when I was younger my family always used to buy black forest cakes from a local bakery. I guess they were all totally unauthentic because they were never soaked in liqueur or filled with sour cherries. Eating it for so long the way I had, I would’ve never thought authentic Black Forest cake is supposed to be that way. It reminds me of the first time I made real authentic lasagna using bechamel instead of tomato sauce.


06/25/06 at 2:31 pm

As always Ivonne, your finished products look fantastic!!
I also agree w/ you re: skimping on ingredients is not the way to go. Butter is better!! So is using quality brandy or whatever spirits the recipe calls for. As you emphasized, the flavor of the finished product is definitely going to be negatively effected by inferior ingredients and enhanced by superior stuff. Why skimp if you don’t have to!!

Ciao…

Bruno


06/25/06 at 2:43 pm

Hi Ivonne!
Thanks for the update on your cooking class - I love hearing about what you’ve learned!


06/25/06 at 5:24 pm

I prefer the taste of butter in my baking,too.The sponge cake looks fantastic.


06/25/06 at 5:36 pm

i love black forest cake, although i’m loathe to say that i also likely haven’t had an authentic version quite yet.

it’s really a shame that the ingredients weren’t as ideal as they could have been. i’d assume that it was more of a cost saving tip done in part by the school. maybe in large industry practice the shortening is common but i do hope that with the growing interest in organic/local/slow food movement that we’ll all be immersed in buttery goodness.


06/25/06 at 9:36 pm

Black forst cake with brandy-soaked cherries: one of the best inventions ever. OH. MY. GOD. For the longest time I had only ever had it the non-traditional way, I suspect which was made much in the same way as you were compelled to make this black-forest cake. Sampling a more traditional one, however, is wonderful. I find it less sweet (which for once, to me, is a good thing!), but so much more flavorful.


06/26/06 at 1:13 am

Those are some beautiful cakes and cookies! I’ve always wanted to make a swiss roll, but I’m a bit terrified of the filling and rolling process…what sort of pan was it you used and was it difficult to roll without breaking up the cake?


06/26/06 at 3:54 am

Hi Ivonne,

That’s a superb photo of the swiss roll! Absolutely gorgeous. Thanks for the inspiration!


06/26/06 at 8:32 am

Despite the fact that the classes are subbing butter with shortening (oh the shame!), every image that you’ve posted here looks scrumptious! Yes…butter beats all!


06/26/06 at 9:58 am

I’m also a member of Butter-holics Anonymous!

I love real Black Forest Cake, sour flavours with chocolate are an inspired combination.


06/26/06 at 11:55 am

When will people learn that there just isn’t any substitute for butter? Nothing compares to real, high-quality butter. Nothing.

Your cakes look beautiful, especially the swiss cake roll. I used to eat those chocolate “Little Debbies” everyday when I got home from school.


06/26/06 at 2:35 pm

Hi Ivonne,
The pics look wonderful! Bring on the butter, I say! My mom makes spritz cookies every christmas - I have fond memories of sprinkling green colored sugar on the christmas tree shaped ones. (She uses one of those machines that spits them out.) So buttery and only slightly sweet, they’re a favorite of mine!


06/26/06 at 2:42 pm

Your so right about choosing the right ingredients… vegetable shortening should just be outlawed!


06/26/06 at 9:33 pm

My grand mother had a machine to make Spritz, actually she used a meat machine with a diff mold. Reminds me of those times, and at every Xmas, my mum makes big batches! Great looking cakes! So much good work!


06/27/06 at 9:15 am

I had to laugh when I read your post about your disappointment with the ingredients. I took a cake decorating course, just one of the Wilton ones, a few years back, and the recipe they give you for the “frosting” that you make at home and bring in to work with in class uses all Crisco-gag! I insisted on substituting half butter in mine, so whenever I had any kind of problem, naturally the instructor would blame it on that!


07/11/06 at 4:12 pm

Hi all,

Thanks again for the comments! You’re all such a source of information, wisdom and wit!

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