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Cream Puff Goes to School: Week 3

Date: Sep. 24th 2006
Category: Baking Class
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On the menu for Week 3:  Butter Crust Bread, French Sticks and Croissants … well … maybe not.

The Art of Bread

Thursday night’s class got off to a busy start as I was once again without partner. Prior to the first demo, our instructor took some more time to talk about the ingredients of bread baking.

I am completely fascinated with what I’m learning. Last week we learned about the basic relationship between yeast, flour, sugar and salt. We learned that you can use sugar to feed your dough and you can use salt to control fermentation (but never let the salt come into direct contact with the yeast). The instructor reinforced a fact that I am coming across more and more:  all-purpose flour is not necessarily the best flour to bake with. In fact, many baked goods are far superior if you use bread flour.

In the case of bread flour, it’s a type of flour that is high in protein because it has been produced from what that is high in protein. Because it has a higher protein level, bread flour helps increase the level of gluten produced in a recipe. Gluten, as I understand it, is what helps give baked goods that elastic quality and it also helps baked goods to rise.

In this week’s class we were also introduced to malt. Using malt is another way of adding sugar to your dough. We learned that since sugar feeds the yeast in a dough, adding sugar and malt to your yeast mixture will help your dough rise even more.

Fascinating stuff.

We put this knowledge to use with two recipes:  Butter Crust Bread and French Sticks.

The Butter Crust Bread is a very basic sandwich loaf that is brushed with clarified butter and slashed across the top before going into the oven. Once out of the oven, it is brushed with more clarified butter.

The dough for this bread consists of water, yeast, bread flour, salt, sugar, malt and milk powder. The sugar and the malt both help to feed the yeast and this was evident in how well our bread rose while it was proofing (the school has these very cool proofing machines that will proof your dough in a fraction of the time it would take at home).

By contrast, the dough for the French Sticks only contained malt and Dscn3184 that dough did not rise nearly as much as the first. This was appropriate as we were using this dough to make baguettes and Vienna rolls which don’t need to rise as high as, say, a sandwich loaf.

In both cases, we got to practice our kneading motion again. I find kneading one of the most relaxing and enjoyable exercises. I just love feeling that raw dough in my hands and the pleasure you receive as you shape it. Granted, my shaping skills are sadly lacking. I need practice. A lot of practice. But just as I learned to make pie dough I know I’ll get the hang of it. If you’ve never tried making bread at home I highly recommend it if only for the experience of kneading dough.

After our doughs were proofed, we sent them off to the ovens to bake. The instructor placed pots of water in the ovens along with the bread. Apparently the steam that rises from the water helps the formation of the bread crust. I’m not completely sure why this is so more investigation is required on my part!

The Butter Crust Bread was unbelievable. Since I had no partner, I took home four loaves of bread and brought two to work the next day. I served them with maple butter and with Nutella. They did not last very long. The bread had a firm enough crumb that you could toast it or spread a topping on it, but it wasn’t too dense either. And the crust was pleasingly buttery.

I was less impressed with the French Sticks dough. Our instructor explained that we could use this dough to make pizza, but I can’t see myself doing that. The bread wasn’t bad. It’s just that it wasn’t particularly flavourful. It was a bit too bland for my tastes.

One thing is certain. Kneading dough is a great upper-body workout. My shoulders and arms were mighty sore the next day!

Breakfast Breads

This was supposed to be all about the lovely croissants that I baked and brought home. But it’s not. In last week’s class we prepared a croissant dough and then sent it off to the freezers to be thawed and baked in yesterday’s class.

Just one problem. The school’s freezers broke. And so we bid adieu to all that lovely dough!

Actually it wasn’t all that bad. Our instructor (who is amazing) had us prepare a new batch of croissant dough and we all welcomed the practice. As soon as that was done we prepared a batch of danish pastry dough. Both of these were frozen and will be baked off next week (barring any further freezer issues!). Because we will have so much work in next week’s class, we’ve been asked to arrive a half hour earlier than usual. But I don’t mind. I’m absolutely loving this class and surprisingly, the scaling of ingredients wasn’t the vicious battleground it’s been in past weeks.

So stay tuned for next week when you’ll get a write up about croissants and danish pastry.

Ciao!

34 Comments


09/24/06 at 7:58 pm

So bread flour is good to use in most of the baking we do? I have some, but I rarely pull it out unless I’m baking … bread. Great tips.


09/24/06 at 7:59 pm

this class sounds as fun as the baking one!

B Herring

09/24/06 at 8:58 pm

Now that’s what I call beautiful!


09/24/06 at 9:29 pm

Beautiful work as always, Ivonne! As far as the water in the oven helping with crust formation… What it does is creates a lot of steam that gelatinizes the protein and starch on the outer layer of the bread. Once all the steam is gone, the outer layer dries out, leaving a crispy, crackly crust. It also keeps the bread moist so it has more time to rise in the oven. If you’re interested in the science and technical side of bread baking, I highly reccomend the Bread Baker’s Apprentice. It’s a wonderful book filled with great recipes and interesting bread information.

I’m excited for the croissants! They’re one of my favorite foods.


09/24/06 at 10:31 pm

You are inspiring me to make some bread Ivonne. I also agree with Natalia. if you are serious about bread, the Bread Baker’s Apprentice is a fantastic book.


09/24/06 at 11:19 pm

I am seriously bread-impared. Can’t ever get it to work. This looks delicious!!


09/24/06 at 11:38 pm

hi ivonne, that looks fabulous! i can almost smell the wafts of goodness just staring at the pictures ;)


09/25/06 at 2:39 am

Just like sugar I am a flour nerd having cake, bread, whole wheat, almond, all-purpose and self rising as we speak.


09/25/06 at 2:46 am

omg … i can smell the aroma of fresh baking bread too! this looks really yummy!


09/25/06 at 4:03 am

Thanks for making me dream with this post!

All that bread sure looks very yummy and beautiful!…


09/25/06 at 4:31 am

I was going to finally make brioche this weekend.. thanks to you. Unforseen circumstances did not allow it to happen, but soon - soon I will make it! And then I’m going to be trying that butter crust - it’s one of my favorites for sammies! All of your breads this week look fantastic. Sorry to hear the French Sticks weren’t too flavorful - but I have confidence that if you try them again, you’ll add your own specialness to fix that problem! :D


09/25/06 at 5:26 am

Nothing beats fresh baked bread straight out of the oven.Looking forward to the Danish.


09/25/06 at 7:06 am

Great post! I’m learning lots about baking just through your own posts of your experiences ;) Have never made bread at home, but I really should give it a try…


09/25/06 at 7:25 am

Ivonne, your bread looks absolutely perfect. When I think of bread, in a very Plato-like image in my mind of ‘perfect bread’ this is what I envision.


09/25/06 at 10:09 am

Hi Ivonne! Beautiful bread loaves! I’m thoroughly enjoying hearing about your school adventures. I love making bread - it’s a wonderful art! That’s such a shame about the school’s freezer, but it’s nice that you were able to redo the croissant dough. Can’t wait to read the exciting conclusion to the croissant story!


09/25/06 at 10:11 am

Hi Ivonne,
I’m curious is you’ve learned exactly what “strong” bread flour is… I have been researching this term and finding conflicting information. Has your class covered it or does anyone else know the facts about it?


09/25/06 at 11:37 am

I’ve been wanting to learn how to bake a good sandwich loaf for a while. The butter crust bread may be a great motivator. I wonder how much the recipe would change if I wanted to make a whole wheat/multigrain type of loaf? Oh, and you have my complete awe and envy for the tomato sauce/jarring post. It seems I can never master that.

Aunt D.

09/25/06 at 12:50 pm

Hi Ivonne,

Your bread looks great!!! Pass the nutella please. When your oven arrives :-), you may want to break-it-in with the potatoe bread and the white bread loaves from the “Baking with Julia” book. I haven’t made them in a while, but they were definitaley a hit win your counsin A. The potatoe bread is especially great when you dip in tomatoe salad juices!!!!!

Love Aunt D.


09/25/06 at 2:07 pm

When do we get to see your buns? *giggle*

Bread is fun, brown bread is supposed to be harder to make rise. I must have got lucky, i’ve never used live yeast before, that’s my next step, but I have lots of the packet stuff to finish off first.

My french baguette just comes out like normal bread, I have to work that recipe over me thinks :-)


09/25/06 at 2:30 pm

Such fun to read and very informative, as always! I am excited to hear about croissants. I’d love to try making them myself.


09/25/06 at 3:23 pm

Oh how I wish I can make this! I’m so jealous! Looks delicious.


09/25/06 at 7:40 pm

And where can I get a copy of the recipe for the butter crust bread… ? :)


09/25/06 at 9:24 pm

Very nice and tasty looking!!

Paz


09/25/06 at 10:16 pm

You’re definitely enticing me to take up baking. I would love to bake and create those cakes for my family.


09/25/06 at 11:31 pm

You have what it takes to make bread…..lucky you!you certainly have to have patience to make these sort of things….good for you!


09/25/06 at 11:43 pm

There is nothing better than fresh baked bread! The smell alone is worth it! I can’t wait for the croissant next week….can we put Nutella on them???


09/26/06 at 7:50 am

I love kneading too, it makes me feel so relaxed and happy. This was such an awesome post! You make me want to find the nearest cooking class and sign up….


09/26/06 at 1:15 pm

Hope the croissants will come out next week! I cannot wait to see them!


09/26/06 at 8:20 pm

Another great post about baking class!


09/28/06 at 10:18 am

It’s my feeling that using the school’s proofing machines are the reason the French sticks had basically no flavour - too fast a rise. From what I understand about French bread, there is invariably a starter dough that ferments overnight. Then the actual dough is made, encorporating the starter dough and the dough rises in a colder environment. (ie: fast rise = bland taste) The most flavourful French-style breads I’ve made consist of unbleached all-purpose flour, a tiny bit of whole wheat flour, water, salt and yeast. That’s it. No malt….

I generally let bread dough rise on the counter. Whenever I’ve pushed the rise by putting it into a lukewarm oven, the resulting bread has been not quite as nutty tasting.

Oh yes, and one more thing from this horribly opinionated baker: I use unbleached all-purpose flour for all of our bread except bagels.

-Elizabeth

P.S. For reading and recipes, I really like “Artisan Baking Across America” by Maggie Glezer and “The Village Baker” by Joe Ortiz. (Not that there’s anything wrong with “Bread Baker’s Apprentice” - I’m just not that big a fan of Reinhart.)

Also, I had a major French bread epiphany after making the recipe for Couronne in the novel “Bread Alone” by Judith Ryan Hendricks. (The novel is pretty Bflat but the recipes are very good.)


09/28/06 at 7:19 pm

Steam adds crunch, colour, and shine. At my culinary school, we had this very expensive, fancy steam injected oven that was terrific. I used to put water or ice with my breads but lately haven’t been bothering. Just getting lazy. Alternately, you can get a spray bottle and spritz the top of your loaves as you put them in the oven (we did this at the bakery where I worked) - just make sure you’re baking your bread in a hot oven. I love butter crust bread, too. I encourage you to crack open that Bread Bible. You won’t be disappointed.


10/3/06 at 5:07 am

Thanks for the info ejm i will try that spray bottle tactic unfortunately i cant afford a steam injection oven.


10/9/06 at 5:06 pm

While I do use the spray bottle tactic too, James, it’s wandering coyote who you should thank….

I too used to fill a broiling pan with water and put it in the oven as it preheated. I would take it out when the bread was half baked and needed to be turned. But now I just spray the risen bread liberally with water just before putting it into the oven.

The other thing that seems to really make a difference is to preheat the oven for a good half hour before baking the bread AND preheat it to 50F more than the recipe calls for. Turn the oven down to the correct temperature when you put the bread in. (Opening the oven door causes major heat loss - books I’ve read say about 50F….)

-Elizabeth


10/25/06 at 5:03 pm

Hi everyone,

I’m really enjoying my bread classes and appreciate your feedback!

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