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Cream Puff Goes to School: Weeks 7 & 8
Date: Jan. 8th 2007
Category: Baking Class, Bread
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A new year always brings with it a sense of starting fresh. Perhaps this is the reason why I have a tendency to do my "spring cleaning" in January. Apart from recovering from the excesses of December including attempts to regain a waistline, January is the time that I like to clean, sort, organize, alphabetize, plan and declutter. Of course these good intentions don’t last long and I’m usually back to my messy self by February, but a girl can dream. Perhaps this will be the year that I finally fulfill my inner neat freak.
Not likely.
Anyhow, I do feel the need to tie up any loose ends from 2006 and this very need led me to realize that I never completed my recaps of baking class. As many long-time readers know last summer I began taking courses at George Brown’s Culinary School in the hopes of obtaining a Bakery Arts Certificate. Last fall, I enrolled in a Breakfast Breads course and in an Art of Breads course. While I told you about the Breakfast Breads class, I didn’t finish telling you about Art of Breads. Since I’m beginning my fourth course this Saturday (more on that in a post to come), I figured I’d better get my act in gear and complete the bread-baking story of 2006.
On the menu for Week 7: Rye Bread and Cheese Bread
Week 7 began with instructions for rye bread that involved creating a "sponge." Breads made with a sponge or starter are very flavourful and have great texture. The sponge for our rye bread consisted of rye flour, water and fresh yeast. We mixed the ingredients and let them stand in a bowl for an hour. After the hour had passed, our sponge had grown considerably and had developed bubbles all over the surface. The bubbles represent the gas that the mixture has produced and are an excellent sign as those gases produced are what will help your bread to rise.
Once our sponge was ready, we added rye flour, bread flour, salt, shortening (not too thrilled about the shortening), water and gluten powder, also known as vital wheat gluten. Because rye flour has a lower gluten content, our instructor explained that adding some gluten powder will increase the gluten in the bread which will help you get a loaf that’s light and chewy. On its own, rye flour will produce a denser, darker bread.
After forming a dough, we shaped it into a large round and let it rest for 20 minutes. We then shaped the dough into loaves and sent it off to the proofer. In class, we are able to use large proofers which release steam and allow the loaves to rise at a much faster rate than if we left them covered on a work surface. While it’s unlikely that you’ll ever go out and buy a proofer for your home, our instructors explained that you can recreate the effect by briefly heating your oven and then turning it off. Once it’s cooled a bit, place a pan of hot water on the bottom of the oven. Place your bread in the oven and then close the oven door.
Once out of the proofer, our loaves went into the oven for 30 minutes at the equivalent of 400 degrees F. The end result were nicely browned loaves that had a strong rye flour, but that weren’t hard or too dense. While I wasn’t thrilled about the use of shortening in the bread (shortening will make it a bit more tender), overall I was pleased with the rye loaves.
The second part of Week 7’s class was spent making cheese bread. For this bread we returned to the very basic formula of bread-making. We created a slurry of water and fresh yeast. To the slurry we added bread flour, sugar, shortening, salt, milk powder and malt. After forming a dough, we added grated cheddar cheese and swiss cheese. We removed our dough from the stand mixer, formed it into a ball and let it rest for 15 minutes.
After the rest period, we shaped our dough into four loaves. After a trip to the proofer, the loaves were baked for 30 minutes at 375 degrees F. Of all the breads in class, this had to be one of the ones I enjoyed the most both for the ease of preparation and the flavour. It’s hard to resist a bread full of melted and oozing cheese. However, if I make this at home, I will most certainly replace the shortening with butter.
On the menu for Week 8: Italian Bread and Focaccia
We began the eighth class with a basic recipe for Italian bread which, our instructor explained, could be
used as a standard for both bread and pizza. Most of the Italian bread that I enjoy eating usually begins with a biga or starter, which contributes to great flavour and texture. This bread, however, followed the basic formula that we’d been adhering to all along. We mixed a slurry of fresh yeast and water, added bread flour and a mixture of malt and salt dissolved in more water. We formed a dough, let it rest and then shaped it into loaves. I chose to shape my portion of the bread into rings. The rings were baked at 400 degrees F. for 30 minutes.
They looked nice but to be honest I was unimpressed. There was very little flavour to the bread and you would most certainly have to eat it with a spread or use it as a base for pizza to truly enjoy it. On its own, it was boring. I really can’t see myself using this recipe to make something as sublime as pizza.
The second part of class, however, was far more promising. We prepared focaccia bread which we
then transformed into stuffed focaccia. The bread began the same way the Italian bread did with a slurry of fresh yeast and water. To that mixture we added bread flour, salt and olive oil. We formed a dough which we let rest for 15 minutes.
After the rest period, we divided the dough into four parts. We used two parts to line the bottom of greased 9-inch cake pans. We brushed the dough with olive oil and then added the toppings of our choice which included sun dried tomatoes, rosemary, sea salt, Parmigiano Reggiano and olives. We took the remaining two parts of dough and used them to cover the toppings, in effect forming a focaccia pie. With our fingers, we sealed the edges of the dough carefully to ensure that the filling would not leak out into the pan and cause the focaccia to stick. We brushed the tops with more olive oil and sent our little babies off to the proofer. Once out of the proofer, we baked the focaccias at 375 degrees F. for about 40 minutes (until the focaccia tops were golden).
This bread was so flavourful! And I loved the idea of using cake pans to create a stuffed focaccia. While I haven’t had the chance to make this since class, I will definitely try it at home. It was a pleasure to use so many fresh, natural ingredients and clear proof that creating a delicious baked good isn’t rocket science. You need good ingredients, some time and some effort. In the end, the results are so rewarding.
Ciao!
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01/8/07 at 9:51 pm
Thanks for sharing this great method of forming the stuffed focaccia. I’m definitely going to try it!
01/8/07 at 10:25 pm
I’m am so drooling over that cheese bread. Yum! But why shortening? I agree, I’d definitely use butter instead.
I’ve left my bread to rise in a steamy bathroom a couple of times, and that seems to create a similar effect to the proofer as well. Super fast rising!
01/8/07 at 10:39 pm
Another loaf of beautiful bread-slice me off a piece!
01/8/07 at 10:52 pm
You make me so hungry! I’m thinking of buttermilk scones with olives now! Some day I’ll have to overcome that bricklike bread phobia! You an inspiration!
01/8/07 at 11:35 pm
Waistlines are highly overrated, my dear
Such lovely looking loaves–thanks for sharing.
j
01/9/07 at 4:30 am
Oh to be organized…it just never is going to happen in my lifetime…my clutter loves me.
Your breads look great…can’t wait to read about you next class.
01/9/07 at 4:59 am
These breads are so beautiful!
01/9/07 at 7:27 am
I like that idea of foccacia pie! And your rye bread is soooo poofy! Great work as always!
01/9/07 at 8:51 am
Wow! Baking bread is like The Final Frontier for me… I am always convinced it is going to be a total screw-up! Although my only attempt at focaccia was very successful, so I don’t know where this fear coes from!! The stuffed focaccia looks absolutely heavenly. Great post!
01/9/07 at 9:08 am
Ivonne, I love reading about your classes/lessons. The info, the details and, of course, the beautiful photographs.
I love baking with yeast, especially fresh, and I want to learn how to bake as many types of bread as possible!
A focaccia filled with all those delicious ingredients? Would you please send one to Brazil? ;D
01/9/07 at 9:11 am
Mmm… stuffed focaccia sounds like a wonderful idea; can’t wait to try it!
01/9/07 at 9:28 am
Looks great! Think I need to go make some bread now!
01/9/07 at 10:14 am
Without tasting any of the bread you made *pout* I know my favorites would be the cheese bread and the stuffed focaccia. Although they were all beautiful! Looking forward to 2007’s classes
01/9/07 at 10:59 am
I’m with you regarding the bread and melted oozing cheese, easily would be my favorite too! I wish they offered bread making classes over here.
01/9/07 at 11:24 am
Sponges (or for that matter, biga/starters) are the best for baking bread, it adds flavour and depth, love to work with it! Especially rye can make your sponges go whoopie!
BTW: When you heat your oven to create a proofing environment make sure it is no warmer than 78F otherwise you’ll efficiently kill the yeast.:(
Your bread looks gorgeous.
01/9/07 at 12:44 pm
That looks delicious! Right up my alley!
01/9/07 at 2:13 pm
Great looking breads Ivonne!
01/9/07 at 2:19 pm
I’ve seen Jamie Oliver stuff breads with all sorts, the one I like is the english breakfast one he did. Hmm, it always comes back to that with me doesn’t it!
01/9/07 at 4:57 pm
I never get enough home made bread
01/9/07 at 5:47 pm
I’d take a warm, fresh piece of bread over a waistline ANY day. ANY.
And I just read on Simply Recipes that you can preheat the oven to 150*, turn it off, cool it a moment, then use it for rising. But Elise doesn’t mention the water.
Is the water for steam to crisp the crust? Is it recommend for all kinds of bread?
01/10/07 at 7:43 am
I might not cook a lot of cakes, but bread… ah, now that’s my staple! I can’t wait to read a recipe for making the focaccia bread!
01/10/07 at 12:41 pm
Bread….my downfall.
01/10/07 at 5:26 pm
Hi Ivonne!
although i’m a regular reader of your blog, this is my first comment here!
2 things surprised me in your note: first, the shortening in the rye bread and second the Italian bread’s recipe that doesn’t call for olive oil..? And i totally agree with you: italian breads mean biga for me also. No wonder the bread you made didn’t have any flavour and didn’t impress you. you’re so right: bread requires natural and simple ingredients, a little effort, lots of patience but the result is sooooooooooo good!
01/10/07 at 5:53 pm
The rye bread looks great BUT I would use olive oil rather than shortening if I were going to make it. (or butter…) And the focaccia sounds great too. My absolute favourite things to put on focaccia are thinly sliced onions, olive oil, fresh rosemary and seasalt. The onions and rosemary get wonderfully caramelized.
I feel sure that your Italian bread was tasteless because of pushing the rise by putting the dough in an overly warm environment. I urge you to try it again at home. Let the dough rise on the counter (or in the fridge overnight). I’ve made lots of Italian style breads - many from Carol Fields’ wonderful cookbook “The Italian Baker”. The ingredients are often just flour, yeast, water and salt; they have been very flavourful. Occasionally, malt and/or olive oil are added as well. But mostly not for the rustic style breads in her book.
If a recipe doesn’t specifically call for a biga or sponge, you can still do it by mixing half the yeast, half the flour, none of the salt and half the water and letting that rise overnight. The next day, just mix in the rest of the ingredients and proceed as directed (except for the part about letting it rise in an overly warm environment).
-Elizabeth
It’s a shame that the George Brown class appears to be teaching shortcuts to how to make okay rather than how to make really great bread by encouraging overnight proofing.
01/10/07 at 8:00 pm
The cheese bread, the stuffed focaccia…hint at what bread is about.
Yeah, seems like some of the classes are taking short cuts and missing the flavor of what bread is about. Flavorful bread takes time…and it doesn’t take busy speedy time it just takes easy do something else time. The other stuff you’re learning is great, shaping. The more I play with delaying dough the better my breads get. Almost any dough can be left to rise in the fridge twice as long or longer and then done up and baked resulting in better deeper flavor. Easy to do at home maybe harder to do in a class setting once a week.
01/10/07 at 10:59 pm
Oh, now that cheese bread is definitely for me! I have a weakness for all kinds of bread but I really love all types of cheese bread!
01/11/07 at 12:12 pm
There’s no such thing as diet here.
01/13/07 at 7:05 pm
I’ve had the same experience as Tanna with delaying the rise by proofing in a cooler environment.
Heh. Having said that, I have just put some shaped raisin bread dough into our warmish oven to push the rise a little. Before shaping, it took the dough all day to rise to double on the kitchen counter . I guess it really is winter at last here in Toronto…. (kitchen temperature is around 16C)
-Elizabeth