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Merci, Paris!
Date: Jun. 8th 2010
Category: The Travelling Cream Puff
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I have returned from Paris!
What a grand week we had! The return home was a bit of an adventure but we made it back safe and sound and we’re left only with memories of a fascinating, delicious city.
While we put in due time visiting all the sites, the reality is that that I spent most of the week eating my way through the city, arrondissement by arrondissement.
I can’t tell which was most delicious.
But I fell hard for Paris after dinners at Mon Vieil Ami and Les Bouqinistes. I got a little tipsy here, but don’t tell anyone.
I took the Ladurée/Pierre Hermé macaron taste-test challenge and I still can’t decide which I prefer. That was part of a tremendous Chocolate Walk that we signed up for through Context Travel. If you go to Paris, I highly recommend their tours!
I watched the Eiffel Tower sparkle and I’m not ashamed to admit I teared up a bit.
The Musée d’Orsay stole my heart. It was a reminder to me that we should all do whatever is necessary to encourage the creation and protection of art.
Speaking of art, I had to actually walk out of Gérard Mulot because I was going to cry. It is a living and bustling monument to the beauty of pastry and baking.
And on the subject of pastry and baking, I was charmed out of my mind by Coquelicot. If I could ever own a bakery, that’s exactly what it would like.
I immersed myself in butter. I ate it all up. Everywhere.
I inhaled the delicious air at Eric Kayser and I paid my respects at Poilâne. The amount of bread I ate is not even measurable.
And I spent my fair share of time gawking at the French. There should be a picture of the map of France under the definition of “elegance” in the dictionary. I don’t know if it’s the tap water or just being born there but people seem to have this innate chicness that you just can’t buy off a hanger.
I want to live in the St. German des Prés district.
I tasted chocolate that reaffirms why bad chocolate is a blasphemy.
I was presented with the most stuning millefeuille at L’Arpege. And I knew, as my fork shattered the perfect pastry, that good food is worth anything. Anything.
This post doesn’t do the week justice. Every day was a lesson in the history of Paris and the ways of the Parisians. It was a whirlwind, and at times it was overwhelming.
But it was so worth it.
Merci, Paris!
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06/8/10 at 1:13 pm
Welcome back! It seems you had a great time!
Cheers,
Rosa
06/8/10 at 1:17 pm
Welcome back!
I’m so jealous! :o)
06/8/10 at 3:03 pm
When I took my sister to Paris last fall we stopped at Coquelicot for a late breakfast one day. I was very tempted to quit my job and ask if they’re hiring right then and there. Such a beautiful spot, incredibly friendly people and the best croissants ever.
06/8/10 at 4:28 pm
sounds like you had aa great time! welcome back!
06/8/10 at 7:23 pm
The post brought tears. The appreciation, love and respect for the jewels of that beautiful city.
06/9/10 at 6:11 am
Bonjour, Ivonne! Welcome back
Beautiful reflection on the charming city of Paris.
06/9/10 at 6:11 am
It sounds like you had the perfect — and most delicious — week. Welcome back.
06/9/10 at 6:39 am
Welcome Back!! Beautiful City. Wonderful Food!! So glad you had a great time. We expect more pictures, reports, etc., of course.
06/9/10 at 7:14 am
Thanks for sharing your memories of Paris with us. I was there with my husband about 11 years ago, and, like yourself, I too fell in love with it - especially the cafes! After Venice (which is what attracted me to your blog in the first place - the word Venice combined with the word creampuffs was irresistible to me), Paris and Parisenne (Parisian?) culture (especially cafe culture) the city of Paris instantly put me under its spell.
As an aside, I don’t know if you’re at all familiar with Paul Weller’s music, but after the amazing band The Jam broke up, he formed the very Paris-jazz-pop group in the 80’s called The Style Council. Check out songs like ‘Down in the Seine’ or ‘A Paris Match’ - where he even sings in French (and always makes me swoon, all these years later). Even the covers of one or two LPs have them sitting outside a cafe in Paris - an amazing, beautiful, brilliant city in an equally beautiful country.
Thanks, once again, for sharing your brilliant experience and wonderful memories of Paris with us.
06/9/10 at 7:41 am
Welcome back ! So happy that you had a great visit. You also had the weather on your side for most of your trip. I see that you went to some great places. On your next trip, I’ll tell you the other places you need to see.
06/10/10 at 1:45 pm
Some see a picture, a flower, a ticket stub or label and see nothing more. You see the threads in a tapestry… enjoyed your post once again,
Penelope
06/10/10 at 4:41 pm
Your vacation sounds incredible. Your post makes me want to hop on a plane to Paris right now.
06/10/10 at 6:29 pm
I need to add Coquelicot to my list of Paris stops; my friend Anne-marie who chucked a career in pharmaceutical sales to become a pastry chef swore to me that Gérad Mulot was the best pastry spot (she trained there); to me they are all ‘the best”;
what else is there to say, Paris will always be Paris, and we will always be gawking.
Pardon me, but I think in regards to elegance, Milanese have it over the Parisians.
06/11/10 at 4:24 am
I love Paris as well, and totally agree with your comment on the average elegance level. Actually I went there once with a former boyfriend: he was staring at any woman in the street like he had never seen a femme before. I resisted the urge to slap him, but I can see his point. They are so totally chic and feminine.
And @tasteofbeirut: I come from Milan, but nevertheless, I disagree with you on this. I think the kind of elegance you see in Milan is the one you can actually buy.
06/11/10 at 9:25 pm
i love that line “chicness you can’t buy off a hanger”. what a powerful line. I hope to visit Paris one day. Glad you had a great time!
06/13/10 at 3:43 pm
You had me at the Ladurée/Pierre Hermé macaron taste-test challenge. What a delicious dilemma.
Cheers!
06/13/10 at 5:57 pm
Welcome back! Sounds like a wonderful holiday…as only Paris can be!
06/13/10 at 6:30 pm
sounds like a wonderful trip
06/14/10 at 10:10 am
Oh… I’m so happy to hear the joy in your words. So many of us know the spell that this city casts, especially those of us in the pastry or chocolate persuasion. I love everything about Paris, but the patisseries are what make my heart swell. And I COMPLETELY know the feeling of almost losing it simply by walking into these institutions. Its simply overwhelming sometime. But isn’t it great to appreciate it for the art it is enough to have a emotional reaction to butter, sugar and flour? I hope you managed to go back in to Gerard Mulot for a macaron. I think they are in line with Pierre Herme. And how, excited I am to hear you went to L’Arpege. On my list, indeed. Oh, how I miss Paris… Welcome home!
06/16/10 at 7:55 am
Lucky lucky you! It sounds fabulous and I am writing down all of the addresses…
06/16/10 at 4:14 pm
I am so glad that you had such a lovely time! Reading your post made me want to go back. Which I do at least weekly if not more often. Last time I was there I swore I’d improve my French so as to lower the smirk level. Perhaps that will not happen and I just shouldn’t care. HUGS!
07/10/10 at 2:27 am
Coincidentally I was also in Paris early June! I am so in love with the city - all I did was walk around for hours daily, camera in hand. I can’t wait to be able to go back!
ALso loved the Musee D’orsay - did you get a chance to check out the ‘Crime and Punishment’ Exhibit? It was ’superbe’ !
07/28/10 at 6:51 pm
[…] Paris. And Alice Waters‘ In the Green […]